The Mohs Gem Hardness Scale

The Mohs Scale, named for the German mineralogist Friedrich Mohs, is the most commmonly used scale in the jewelry industry to rank the relative hardness of gemstones.

The term “hardness” refers to the resistance of a mineral to scratching. The hardest mineral on Earth, diamond, ranks as a 10 on the Mohs.

On this site, we refer to the Mohs ranking of the hardness of a stone. This information will be helfpul in understanding the care necessary for each gemstone, and will advise you as to how resistant each stone is to nicks, cracks, and scratches.

During my twenty-five year career as a jeweler, there were many occasions when I would have to inform a customer that their sapphire, or opal, or blue topaz stone had a serious chip in it and that one more blow would probably fracture the stone in two.

This is also possible with the ultra-hard diamond -- their girdles can chip and in severe cases, a diamond can actually be cracked if struck hard enough and at just the right spot. The “cleavage planes” in a diamond (and all other natural, mined gemstones) that allow cutting and polishing are also the weak points in a stone.

Knowing the hardness of a gemstone can make a person more aware of how to treat a ring so as not to damage the stone.

MOHS SCALE OF GEMSTONE HARDNESS

• 1: Talc
• 2: Gypsum
• 2.5 Amber
• 3: Calcite, Coral
• 4: Fluorite, Malachite
• 5: Apatite, Variscite
• 5.5: Lapis Lazuli
• 5.5 - 6.5: Chrome Diopside
• 6: Amazonite, Opal, Rhodonite, Turquoise
• 6 - 6.5: Feldspar, Moonstone, Zircon
• 6.5: Hematite, Nephrite, Peridot
• 6.5 - 7: Tanzanite
• 6.5 - 7.5: Garnet
• 7: Agate, Amethyst, Carnelian, Citrine, Iolite, Kunzite, Jadeite, Onyx, Quartz, Tiger’s Eye
• 7 - 7.5 Iolite
• 7.5: Andalusite, Aquamarine, Emerald, Morganite, Tourmaline
• 8: Spinel, Topaz
• 8.5 Alexandrite, Cat’s Eye
• 9: Ruby (Corundum), Sapphire (Corundum)
• 10: Diamond

All about Tiger's Eye!

•What is tiger’s eye?
Tiger’s eye is a translucent to opaque form of quartz known for the band of white that appears in the center of tiger’s eye stones that are cut into cabochons. Even though they are often confused with each other, tiger’s eye is not the same as cat’s eye.

•Where is tiger’s eye found?
Tiger’s eye is found in Sri Lanka, India, Brazil, Australia, and the United States.

•Color
Tiger’s eye occurs naturally in a range of browns, including golden-brown, yellowish-brown, and reddish-brown. It also occurs in a black variety and occasionally in a bluish form. The dark honey-brown with black stripes is a very popular form of tiger’s eye, and is often used in men’s jewelry such as cufflinks and tie tacks.

•Shape
Tiger’s eye is rarely, if ever cut into the faceted gemstone shapes. It is almost always cut into cabochons (to highlight the “eye” effect), cut and polished into beads, and carved into figurines.

•Durability
Tiger’s eye is a 7 on the Mohs Scale and can be worn under most circumstance with relatively safety. It can be cut and polished with ease and its cabochon shape (which usually mandates that the stone be set into a protective bezel) gives it protection against girdle chips and fractures common to faceted gemstones.

•Quality
Due to its opaque nature, the quality of tiger’s eye is determined by the beauty and distinctiveness of its “eye” and the appeal and uniformity of its color. It is a relatively inexpensive gemstone so fine color specimens are readily available. As always when you’re considering the purchase of a gemstone for which a “Quality Scale” (as exists for diamonds, etc.) does not apply, the visual appeal of a stone should be your guiding light.

•Legend and lore
Tiger’s eye is reputed to be able to soften personal stubbornness, if that is a dominant trait of the wearer. It is also reported to facilitate the relaxation response, and allow people who are wound a little too tight to “unwind.”

•Care
You can clean tiger’s eye in standard jewelry cleaner, but do not soak it too long. In fact, the safest way to clean it would be to swish it around in the cleaner, give it a good brushing, and then rinse it well under warm water. This should brighten it up and allow the beauty of the “eye” to be seen.

All about Turquoise!

•What is turquoise?
Turquoise is a completely opaque, blue to bluish-green mineral made of aluminum and copper that is extremely popular for setting in sterling silver and has long been associated with Native American jewelry. Turquoise is used as the December birthstone and is the commemorative gemstone for the 11th wedding anniversary.

•Where is turquoise found?
The finest turquoise is found in Iran, where it has been mined since 1000 BC. Turquoise of varying colors and qualities is also found in Mexico, China, on the Sinai Peninsula in Egypt; in Russia, Chile, Australia, England; and the southwest United States, especially New Mexico and Arizona. Currently, the southwest U. S. is the world’s largest source for turquoise.

•Color
Turquoise occurs in shades of blue, with deep, vivid blue being the most popular, as well as the rarest. Turquoise also occurs in shades of blue-green to a completely green variety.

•Shape
Turquoise is cut into cabochons (one of its most popular uses), fashioned and polished into beads of varying shapes, and also used for cameos. Because of its opaque nature (meaning light cannot penetrate the stone and disperse through facets as it does in translucent and transparent stones), turquoise is rarely cut into the faceted gemstone shapes.

•Durability
Turquoise is only a 6 on the Mohs Scale and is, therefore, not as durable as harder stones. Turquoise is susceptible to being chipped or cracked during wear, so care should be exercised when wearing turquoise jewelry (especially rings). Also, turquoise should not be boiled or subjected to excessive heat changes. Turquoise’s opaque nature means that it is usually set into bezels which do serve to protect it against damage, but be cautious nonetheless.

•Quality
The highest quality turquoise is a deep blue color with no surface marks or off-color areas. The opaque nature of turquoise eliminates the possibility of grading the stone by its internal inclusions, so color (blue is the more valuable) and surface perfection are the criteria by which high quality turquoise is judged.

•Legend and lore
Turquoise has long been used by Native Americans for assuring good fortune. Wearing turquoise can also shift one’s emotional center towards love and enhance the wearer’s feeling of “oneness” and unity with other people.

•Care
Do not clean your turquoise with anything other than mild soap and water. Do not soak it in the solution, though; wet a cloth, wash the piece, and then rinse it well. Polishing the stone (and its sterling silver mountings) with a soft jeweler’s rouge cloth will also keep it looking bright and clean.

All about Coral!

•What is coral?
The coral used for jewelry is an organic substance that is actually the skeleton of a small marine animal called a coral polyp. These creatures live in branching colonies that form coral reefs and atolls as the lower levels of members die and the newer members grow on top of them. Coral’s chemical composition is calcium carbonate (but it is not recommended that it be used as a calcium supplement!).

•Where is coral found?
Coral is found in warm waters off the coast of Japan, and also in the Red Sea, and along the Mediterranean, African, and Malaysian coasts. Black and golden coral (made of conchiolin) is found in the waters around the West Indies, Australia, and along the coasts of many of the Pacific Islands.

•Color
Coral comes in lovely shades of red and pink (the most popular hues), as well as the rarer white, black, blue, and golden colors. Japanese coral is always red, pink, or white.

•Shape
Coral is either hand-carved (both for setting into jewelry and for making figurines); cut and polished into cabochon (domed) shapes; or fashioned into beads for stringing. Because of its organic nature (and softness) coral is never faceted like other harder, mined gemstones. Oval cabochons are a very popular use of coral, and are often found in rings, pendants, and earrings.

•Durability
On the Mohs 1 to 10 Hardness Scale, coral is a mere 3, and, thus, is considered a very delicate gemstone. It can chip or crack if banged on a hard surface, such as the edge of a filing cabinet or a faucet. Also, because of its calcium carbonate nature, it should not be exposed to acids (such as the juice from an orange on your fingers), nor should it be sprayed with cologne, powder, or hairspray. (Put your coral jewelry on after using your scents and sprays.) Coral is also sensitive to heat and can crack or break if boiled or exposed to excessive heat. Also, repeated exposure to water may make its color fade. It is therefore not recommended to wear coral while swimming or showering. A tip: Treat your coral the way you would your pearls.

•Quality
A deep, vivid red color and a smooth luster are often considered marks of a quality coral piece. Black coral should be highly polished and almost look like onyx. White coral with a tinge of pink — known as angel skin coral — can be expensive and has been used extensively in jewelry in recent years. As with all organics (pearl, amber, ivory, shell, etc.), the beauty of a piece is in the eye of the beholder and many people delight in the natural “wood grain” lines and imperfections of a “less than perfect” piece of coral.

•Legend and lore
According to legend, coral can protect children, cure madness, impart wisdom, stop bleeding, calm storms, prevent sterility, and allow travelers to safely cross large bodies of water. Coral is also rumored to create an emotional openness in its wearer and to generate excitement and enthusiasm.

•Care
Coral jewelry should be gently cleaned with warm water and a mild detergent, such as a dishwashing solution. Do not immerse coral in any solutions containing ammonia or any other harsh solvents. (Note: Commercial jewelry cleaning solutions often contain ammonia or other chemicals which will harm coral.) Rinse the piece thoroughly in warm water and pat dry with a towel or paper towel. Do not boil coral jewelry and do not dry it by using a heater or blow dryer.

All about Onyx!

•What is onyx?
Onyx is a form of the quartz mineral chalcedony that occurs in many colors and in semitranslucent to completely opaque forms. The gemstone commonly called “black onyx” is chalcedony that has been dyed completely black, thereby eliminating the natural color bands that often occur in chalcedony, similar to those found in agate. Black onyx is one of the commemorative gemstones for the 7th wedding anniversary.

•Where is onyx found?
The noble stone onyx (a gemstone must surely be held in high regard to be carved into chess pieces, as is onyx!) in all its forms and colors, and in all varieties of translucency and color banding intensity, is found in every country on earth.

•Color
Natural onyx occurs in many colors. including red, orange, apricot, several shades of brown and cream, and in variations of these hues. Sardonyx, a combination of sard (a brownish-red chalcedony) and onyx, is usually the color of rust with white color banding. Black onyx, as noted above, is chalcedony dyed pure black. Other dyed varieties of onyx include the colors blue, green, and red.

•Shape
Onyx is cut and polished into beads of all shapes; carved into cameos and intaglios, cut and polished into both cabochons and flat-top, nonfaceted stones; and fashioned into figurines and chess pieces. Onyx’s striking color and smooth texture make it an especially appealing medium for carvings and figurines.

•Durability
Onyx is a hard 7 on the Mohs Scale and is a relatively tough stone to work with. It is suitable for regular wear in rings, earrings, pendants. although colored onyx with distinct banding is going to be more vulnerable to chipping because of its layered nature.

•Quality
Onyx is plentiful and affordable and its quality is therefore determined by the intensity (and personal appeal) of its color, the smoothness of its texture, and the absence of surface imperfections like cracks or pitting. Interestingly, in many cases, the “value” of a particular piece of onyx sculpture or jewelry will increase if there is obvious craftsmanship or a superior artistic element to the piece. For instance, an intricately carved, artistically superior onyx cameo will be worth more, and will be considered of higher quality, than a cameo of lesser craftsmanship. All black onyx is usually considered of equal quality as long as the color is uniform and the cutting of the stone is competent; the value of black onyx increases proportionately for the larger stones.

•Legend and lore
According to legend, onyx can relieve pain when placed on the bellies of women in labor, as well as protect its wearer from the “evil eye.” Onyx is also reputed to balance the “female energies” present in everyone, both male and female. The darker onyx stones are said to enhance the power energies of males; the lighter onyx stones are “gentler” stones and will more readily empower women than men.

•Care
Do not clean your onyx jewelry in an ammonia-based jewelry cleaner. Instead, soak it in a mild soapy solution and rinse it thoroughly under warm to hot water. Dry your onyx jewelry with a soft cloth and do not store it in direct sunlight. Also, black onyx, because of its dyed nature, should not be exposed to intense, direct sunlight or heat, immersed in chemical solutions, nor should it be worn while swimming or showering.

A Pearl Primer

Some ask’d how pearls did grow, and where?
Robert Herrick
“The Rock of Rubies, and the Quarry of Pearls”

Nature has blessed its many creations with a wide range of ways to defend themselves. The several species of mollusks that produce pearls possess one of the more unique (and effective) methods.

The glorious and beloved pearl, in all its delightful variations, is made of an organic substance called nacre (aragonite). In order to protect their sensitive inner surfaces, certain types of shellfish (especially the bivalve oyster and the mussel), secrete nacre around an irritant, such as a pebble, or a deliberately inserted (by man) bead. Layer after layer of nacre is added until the object we know as a pearl is formed.

Natural pearls occur when the irritant is accidental; i.e., a tiny sea creature or a rock somehow ends up inside an open oyster. These types of pearls are completely oyster-made and are very rare and, thus, quite expensive. Natural pearls come in shades of white and cream and the rarest color, black. They are often irregular in shape and tend to be not as perfectly round as cultured pearls. There are many sources for natural pearls around the world, including the Red Sea, the Indian Ocean, and the Persian Gulf, although their cost prohibits their routine use in jewelry.

Cultured pearls come into being when man gives nature what you might describe as a little “push,”: Pearl farmers deliberately implant an irritant -- usually a mother-of-pearl bead -- in a mollusk. The oyster reacts to this “intruder” in the same way as if the invading object was randomly introduced into its body. The living creature builds layer upon layer of nacre around the bead until the growth resembles the familiar gem we know as a pearl.

Cultured Pearls

Cultured pearls were developed in Japan in 1904 by Kokichi Mikimoto, although the first attempt to culture pearls dates back to an attempt allegedly made by the Arabs of the Red Sea in the second century BC, as chronicled by the Greek writer Apollomius of Tyre (although many historians doubt Apollumius’s claims).

The largest producer of cultured pearls today is Japan. China is also a major supplier. Another important source of cultured pearls are the coastal waters of Tahiti and many of the other Polynesian Islands, as well as the coastal waters of Australia.

Only one out of every twenty oysters contains a valuable pearl. Cultured pearls range in size from 2 millimeters to 8 or even 9 millimeters. (Helpful Tip: There are 25 millimeters in an inch, which makes it simple to calculate how many pearls of a given size make up an inch. For example, five 5 millimeter pearls make up one inch of pearls; while it takes eight 3 millimeter pearls to equal an inch, etc.).

Cultured pearls are graded and evaluated by five factors: Luster, Size, Shape, Surface, and Color. Let’s look at these characteristics one at a time.

• Luster: Luster, which is also called “orient,” is the way light reflects off the surface of the pearl and is often described as the sheen. Pearls range in quality from a very high luster -- an intense, brilliant reflection off its surface -- to low luster -- a dull, flat appearance that has almost no reflection whatsoever. The luster of a high quality strand of pearls is one of its most appealing visual elements and is often the deciding factor when purchasing pearls. There is nothing more dramatic than placing on a black velvet showcase pad a high luster strand of pearls right next to a same-size strand with very low luster. The contrast is striking and effectively illustrates the differences between pearls of varying sheen.
• Size: As previously discussed, cultured pearls most often occur in sizes from 2 millimeters to 9 millimeters in diameter. The size of the pearl is determined by the size of the implanted bead and the thickness of the nacre growth. (Tiny cultured pearls from 1 millimeter to 1.75 millimeters in diameter are referred to as “seed pearls.”) As the size of cultured pearls goes up, so does the price, with the most expensive being the rare 7, 8, and 9 millimeter pearls. Lately, 5 to 6 millimeter pearls have been extremely popular and affordably priced. “Half-drilled” pearls are used in rings and earrings; “full-drilled” pearls are used for stringing on nylon bead cord for necklaces and bracelets.
• Shape: Cultured pearls grow in nature in many shapes, including round, oval, pear, button, and other forms. For a traditional look, the perfectly round pearls are the rarest, the most prized, and usually the most expensive. The other shapes of pearls often lend themselves to interesting and appealing uses, such as earrings, brooches, and in free-form rings. Strands require round pearls (as closely matched in shape as possible) but there are many opportunities for the use of other shape pearls in a wide range of jewelry pieces.
• Surface: This term is used to describe the imperfections found on the surface of a cultured pearl. These include bumps, blisters, cracks, spots, and welts. Better pearls are free from large blemishes. When selecting a strand of pearls, each pearl should match as closely as possible the others on the strand. (Some minor blemishes can be effectively eliminated in pearls for stringing by drilling the pearl at the site of the imperfection, although this is usually not practical when the pearls have many bumps or cracks.) As with other gemstones, the “cleaner” the pearl, the more expensive the pearl. However, tiny marks on pearls should be viewed as part of their basic nature. They should not be considered a detriment; they are, in fact a hallmark of the pearl’s natural essence.
• Color: Pearls range in color from light to dark, in a wide range of body colors and with a variety of overtones. Light pearls come in soft shades of pink, white, or cream. Dark pearls are called black and includes pearls that are silver-grey, dark blue, purple, blue-green, green, and bronze; with or without metallic overtones. Colored pearls come in light to medium shades of yellow, green, blue, violet, purple or gray. Color is more common in freshwater pearls than in saltwater pearls.

Pearl Questions & Answers

What is an Akoya Pearl?
Akoyas are saltwater pearls cultivated in Akoya oysters in Japan and China. They are slightly rosy; many are naturally pinkish; some are naturally pewter grey; they are roundish in shape; and they range from 2 to 9 millimeters in size. Today, Japanese Akoya pearls are unrivaled in their color and luster.

What is a Baroque Pearl?
A baroque pearl is a pearl that is uneven in surface texture, regardless of its shape. Baroque pearls can range from pear-shaped to very irregular and unusual shapes.

What is a Black Pearl?
A black pearl is a natural pearl formed when a high amount of mineral salts are present in the waters where the mollusk is found. It is believed that other factors influencing the formation of black pearls are the type of plankton the oyster consumes as well as the specific species of oyster. An important source for black pearls today is French Polynesia (especially the waters around Tahiti).

What is a Blister Pearl?
A blister pearl is a pearl that is formed while attached to the wall of a mollusk which must be removed along with part of the oyster’s shell. Blister pearls vary in size and shape.

What is a Circle Pearl?
Circle pearls are a relatively new subspecies of the baroque pearl that many pearl aficionados have noted resemble fancy Christmas tree ornaments. A circle pearl is a cultured freshwater or saltwater pearl that has concentric circles running around its diameter, producing an intriguing “ribbed” look. Recently, strands of 10 millimeter and larger circle pearls have become very popular due to their unique look and ultra-affordability.

What is a Freshwater Cultured Pearl?
Freshwater cultured pearls are grown in lakes and rivers in the United States and in Japan and China. They come in several colors, including white, pink, lavender, peach, apricot, and beige. Chinese freshwater pearls boast excellent color, luster, and value. Some freshwater pearls look like grains of rice; some are ovalish; and some are close to being completely round.

What are Honora Pearls?
Honora pearls are a nearly round type of freshwater pearl.

What are Mabe Pearls?
Mabes are half-sphere pearls that are cultured against the inside shell of an oyster. Mabe pearls have one completely flat side.

What is Mother-of-Pearl?
Mother of Pearl is the pearly internal layer of a mollusk shell. Mother-of-Pearl is often used as a decorative gem and as watch dials.

What is a South Sea Pearl?
A South Sea pearl is a large saltwater pearl averaging from 10 to 20 millimeters in size. It is cultivated in the oceans around Australia, Myanmar, Indonesia and other South Sea countries. South Sea pearls occur in round, off-round, and baroque shapes. They are plentiful and their colors range from white and gold to pastel shades. The industry magazine Modern Jeweler said in their March 1999 issue that “The South Sea pearl is for the customer who wants something of great prestige and is willing to pay whatever it takes to get it.” Golden South Sea pearls from Australia are the rarest of the South Sea pearls.

Pearl Fashion Tips

Pearls are subtle, gracefully elegant and they go with everything: They look lovely with suits and dresses and also add a stylish accent to sportswear and even jeans and t-shirts. Many women consider a strand of pearls, a pair of pearl earrings, and a pearl ring to be three very important components of their basic jewelry wardrobe.

• Dark-skinned women look best in pearls with a gold tint.
• Pink complexions are most complemented by pearls with a creamy rose color.
• Pearl chokers look best on long necks.
• Uniform strands are the most popular style of pearl necklace today.
• Graduated strands look best on short and wide necks.
• Pearl earrings with diamonds call attention to the eyes and hair.
• A single strand of pearls is perfect for daily wear at the office; a multi-strand necklace is the ultimate accessory for evening wear.

Legend and Lore About Pearls

The world pearl comes from the Latin word sphaerula which means “sphere.” Pearls were among the first natural objects to be valued by man and the largest pearl in the world is the Pearl of Asia, which weighs an astonishing 605 carats.

Pearls were once believed to be the tears of the gods, and ancient Greeks believed that pearls were drops of moisture flung from Aphrodite’s body as she emerged from the sea and shook off the water.

Cleopatra possessed two magnificent pear-shaped natural pearls. When Marc Antony questioned her love for him, she came up with a dramatic way of proving it: she dissolved one of her precious pearls in a goblet of wine and then drank the wine.

The pearl fisheries of the Persian Gulf are at least 2,000 years old, and in China, pearls were worn for adornment more than 3,000 years ago.

Pearls represent purity, modesty, and gentleness. They are also symbolic of the moon, and signify hidden talents, sexual fulfillment, and the soul.

Jesus refers to pearls in his Sermon on the Mount: In Matthew 7:6, he says, “Give not that which is holy unto the dogs, neither cast ye your pearls before swine, lest they trample them under their feet...”

In 1917, Pierre Cartier paid for a New York mansion on Fifth avenue with a double-strand pearl necklace. Today, that mansion is Cartier’s world headquarters.

Pearl Lengths and Sizes

• Choker: 15 inches.
• Chute: 16 to 18 inches.
• Collar: 16 inches, with a flat design.
• Dog collar: 13 or 14 inches, consisting of several rows of pearls and worn very snug around the neck.
• Matinee length: 22 inches.
• Opera length: 30 inches.
• Princess length: 20 or 21 inches.
• Rope: 40 inches or longer.
• Standard (traditional) length: 18 inches.
• Torsade: Several strands of pearls (usually freshwater) twisted together into one strand. Sometimes different colored strands of freshwater pearls are used for a torsade, providing a striking multi-colored look.
• Lariat: A long strand with decorated ends that are tied or looped instead of clasped.
• Earrings: Usually 4 to 9 millimeters in size.
• Uniform: A strand of pearls that are all one size, ranging from small 3 millimeter pearls to 9 or even 10 millimeter pearls.
• Graduated: A strand of pearls with one large center pearl and progressively smaller pearls tapering down to the ends.

Caring for Your Pearls

• Pearls strands should be worn around your neck at least twice a month. The contact with your skin keeps the pearls moisturized and wearing them allows them to fall naturally and gracefully.
• Pearls should be the last thing you put on and the first thing you take off. Hair spray, colognes, and makeup will damage the pearl’s organic nacre and will eventually ruin them.
• Do not swim while wearing your pearls. Chlorine and saltwater will damage the pearls themselves and water will also saturate and fray the bead cord on which they are strung.
• Wipe your pearls with a soft cloth after each wearing.
• Pearls should sit snugly up against each other with a small knot between each pearl. With regular wear, knotted strands will loosen and you will begin to notice a space between the pearls and the knots. This is your cue to have them restrung. Depending on wear, a complete restringing every two to three years is wise. (Some experts recommend annual restringing, although this does seem a bit excessive.)
• Pearl stud earrings can be washed gently with mild soap and water. Be sure to dry them thoroughly with a soft cloth.
• Do not let your pearl jewelry rub up against your other jewelry.
• Never place pearls in an ultrasonic cleaner and never have them steam-cleaned.

Ransack the ocean for orient pearl.

Christopher Marlowe
Doctor Faustus

All about Jade!

•What is jade?
“Jade” is an umbrella term used to describe two specific minerals, jadeite and nephrite. In 1863, the French chemist Augustine Damour identified the two types of jade, although the differences between jadeite and nephrite had been known to the Chinese since the mid-18th century. Jadeite is the more valuable, and also the rarer of the two, as well as being the harder of the two varieties of the gemstone. The finest jadeite is called Imperial jade. Jadeite is the jade most often used for jewelry today.

Nephrite is not as hard as jadeite, but its interlocking crystalline structure, ironically, makes it a little stronger, and nephrite is the variety of jade most often selected for carvings, figurines, and was even used for weapons (such as daggers and clubs) in ancient times.

•Where is jade found?
Jadeite is found in Myanmar (formerly Burma), Russia, Japan, Guatemala; and California in the United States. (The finest jadeite comes from Myanmar.) Nephrite is found in China, Siberia (dark green), Taiwan, New Zealand, Switzerland, Brazil, British Columbia, Australia (black), Poland, Germany, India, Canada, Zimbabwe (dark green), Mexico; and in Alaska, California, and Wyoming in the United States.

•Color
Jadeite occurs in a wide range of colors, including the complete range of greens (including speckled green), lavender, brown, honey-yellow, white, black, and grey. Nephrite is mostly green, with gray, black, or brown undertones. Nephrite also occurs in a completely gray or black variety, and also in a grayish-white form sometimes referred to as “mutton-fat” jade and especially favored for carving figurines.

•Shape
Both forms of jade are cut and polished into beads, cut into cabochons, and carved into cameos, intaglios, and figurines. Jade is occasionally cut into the faceted gemstone shapes such as round brilliant or marquise, although cabochon is the more popular and more traditional style for jade.

•Durability
Jadeite has a hardness of 7 on the Mohs Scale; nephrite, a 6 1/2, and both are extremely tough and excellent to work with. Both carve well, set well, and can handle the jeweler’s torch with little if any problems. Sometimes, extremely porous jadeite may be impregnated with jeweler’s wax to stabliize extremely fragile natural “tunnels” in the stones (a common in the industry) and the larger cabochons treated in this manner may occasionally exhibit some pitting under prongs, but this can be prevented by having the stones periodically checked by a professional and repositioning the stone if necessary. Overall, jade is a very durable stone that can be worn safely under almost all circumstances.

•Quality
The quality of both types of jade is determined by:

• the intensity and uniformity of a stone’s body color (dark green is considered the highest quality, followed by lavender, red, yellow, white, and black)
• the number of flaws, cracks, spots, and blotchy areas (the fewer, the better)
• its texture, polish and finish (a smooth surface with a fine “grain” and a brilliant luster are a higher quality than a coarse, rough surface and a dull finish)
• a semi-transparent or extremely translucent visual appearance (light should seem to “enter” the stone as compared to stopping flatly at the surface of a nonreflective stone).

•Legend and lore
How jade received its name is a fascinating story. When Spanish conquistadors invaded Mexico in the 16th century, they discovered that the natives were wearing jade to cure kidney problems, so the conquistadors called the beautiful stone piedra de ijada, which translates to “stone of the loins.” Interestingly, the ancient Romans also believed that jade was a cure for inflammation of the kidneys, known as “nephritis.” Thus, the Romans called jade by the Latin term lapis nephriticus, which eventually was shortened and Anglicized to nephrite. Jade’s range of “natural” colors has long been associated with the bounties of nature, and many believe that the stone is a gift from God.

Jade has various mystical and spiritual properties attributed to it, including inner purity, higher consciousness, intellectual superiority, the art of music, and the virtue of loyalty. It also represents good fortune and abounding health and many wear it as an emblem of these attributes. Jade is also reputed to stimulate optimism and promote understanding of the opposite sex. Also, white jade can purportedly cure intestinal trouble, while black jade is believed to imbue the wearer with strength.

•Care
Clean your jade jewelry in a mild soapy solution (don’t soak it more than a few minutes) and rinse it well under warm water. Avoid exposihg jade to excessive heat, as some forms of color-treated jade may fade; also avoid chemicals such as ammonia-based jewelry cleaner and harsh chemical cleaners.

Silver!

The Queen of Metals

Silver is special...and a litany of superlatives is needed to do justice to its wonders: Of the three precious metals -- gold and platinum being the other two -- silver is the most abundant, the most lustrous, the most reflective, the least expensive, the “whitest of the white metals,” the easiest to work with, and the very first of the precious metals to be used to make jewelry.

Silver was being used in Egypt over 5500 years ago and silver headbands from prehistoric times have been found in Spain.

There are many references to silver in the Bible, one of the most notable being a comparison of the words of the Lord to purified silver in Psalms 12:6: “The words of the Lord are pure words, as silver tried in a furnace of earth, purified seven times.”

For all its popularity as jewelry, silver’s most important use is as monetary currency. Fully two-thirds of the world’s population use silver as money.

Silver has the same hardness as gold, around 2 1/2 on the Mohs Scale and, like gold, silver can be hammered so thin light will pass through it.

The leading producers of silver are the United States, Mexico, Canada, Peru, Russia, and Australia and each year, the United States uses 15 million troy ounces of silver for jewelry.

How Sterling Silver Got Its Name

Sterling silver is 92.5% silver and 7.5% alloy, usually copper, nickel and zinc. For decades, German silversmiths refined silver for the English, adding alloys to pure silver to make a stronger, brighter metal that was then used in England to make tableware, drinking vessels, and, of course, jewelry. The English called the Germans “Easterlings” because as a people they had settled east of Great Britain. German silver, thus, became known as “Easterling” silver and eventually the “ea” was dropped and the metal became known simply as “sterling silver.” The Germans’ “recipe” for sterling silver survives to this day.

Silver: A Shining Fashion Star

Silver jewelry is popular around the world: Women in Egypt and India favor silver anklets; Hindu women wear silver bangles and silver toe rings; American Indian silver jewelry is enormously popular.

Silver is a wonderfully appealing luminous metal that is both affordable and precious and the world supply of silver is gigantic, thus assuring affordability and innovative design experimentation for decades to come.

Silver fits in nicely with casual fashion styles but it is versatile enough to also work beautifully with dressy, designer styles. Earrings are the best-selling category of silver jewelry, followed by neckwear. Silver bracelets with and without gemstones are a perennial favorite.

Other popular silver jewelry styles include big rings with faceted colored stones ranging from pastels to the deeper colored gems; silver chokers; satin finishes; and silver mixed with yellow gold in both 14K and 18K as accents, creating a striking two-tone effect.

Silver Linings

Silver is associated with the Moon, psychic energy, and purity. Silver also symbolizes peace, sincerity, chastity, eloquence, joy, and knowledge. The 25th wedding anniversary is known as the Silver Anniversary.

Platinum!

Precious Platinum

Platinum has long been called the most precious of metals and the reasons it has earned that title is because of its rare and special qualities; characteristics not found in any of the other noble metals (gold and silver).

Platinum was discovered in Ecuador and Columbia before the fifteenth century. The Spaniards found large deposits of platinum in South America in 1750. By the 1920s, two-thirds of all the platinum mined was being used in the United States.

Platinum is one of the heaviest and densest substances known to man. If the identical piece of jewelry were to be made in silver and platinum, the platinum piece would weigh twice as much as the silver piece. Platinum is also the hardest of the three precious metals and is three times as durable as gold.

Platinum jewelry in the United States is either 90 or 95 per cent pure platinum. Iridium or ruthenium is often added to platinum as a strengthening alloy and to maximize platinum’s white beauty. In the United States, the abbreviations PT or plat indicate platinum; in Europe, the mark 950 (indicating 95% purity) is used to denote platinum.

In addition to its popularity for jewelry (it’s beautiful, durable, and completely hypoallergenic), platinum’s resistance to heat, rust, tarnish, and corrosion makes it perfect for use in cardiac pacemakers; as heat- and chemical-resistant lab containers; and in automobile catalytic converters.

Ten tons of ore must be mined for every ounce of platinum. (It takes three tons of ore to obtain one ounce of gold; and an astonishing 250 tons of ore to acquire a single 1-carat diamond.)

Less than 100 tons of platinum are produced each year worldwide, compared to 1,500 tons of gold.

Platinum is mined in Russia, Columbia, Alaska, South Africa, and Canada and is extremely labor intensive: It takes a full five months to process ore to pure platinum (gold takes about a month); and the polishing process for platinum takes far longer and requires more steps than does gold.

Style & Elegance

Platinum has been used for jewelry since the turn of the century, although the advent of World War II completely eliminated the use of platinum for jewelry. Why? Because platinum was declared a strategic metal by the United States government and all of the platinum produced ended up being used for electrical contacts, in heat-resistant gear, in dentistry, and as corrosion-proof wire. During World War II, even actress Mae West sold her diamond and platinum jewelry to help the war cause.

Platinum is the purest of the white metals and today is associated with luxury and elegance; although even jewelry lovers on a modest budget can wear platinum. Platinum has also become an extremely popular choice for diamond engagement rings and wedding bands; and platinum watches have become popular for the consumer (especially men) wanting a unique and special timepiece.

Another very popular fashion style today is to mix platinum with 18K yellow gold, creating a sleek and elegant two-tone look.

The platinum and diamond bow brooch -- originally popularized in the early 20th century -- is now again in fashion as a stunning accessory for both daytime wear on suits and for evening wear on gowns and dresses.

Interestingly, even though platinum is not a commemorative metal for a wedding anniversary, in Italy, platinum has been designated as the gift to give for someone’s 18th birthday. Since the 18th is unquestionably a milestone birthday, the Italian jewelry industry has decided that only platinum would do for such a momentous event!

For the Exceptional Person...

Platinum is for the jewelry lover who wants a sleek, cool, classic look. When highly polished, platinum can be as reflective as mirror; when buffed to a satin finish, the metal has a soft, silky look and feel.

Platinum is the essence of subtle style; and no precious metal brings out the brilliance of diamonds the way platinum does.

Platinum is an exceptional product of nature, and jewelry made from this glorious metal is equally notable.

Gold!

Put forth thy hand,
reach at the glorious gold.
William Shakespeare,
Henry VI, Part 2

Glorious Gold

Gold is the world’s most popular metal...and for good reason!

Gold has been with us for eons and its amazing properties make it one of the most unique and special natural creations on Earth.

Gold, often described as the “supreme raw material” is the only precious metal that combines irresistible beauty, remarkable workability, indestructibility, and rarity. Gold is so special that it has long been a symbol for all things good, including describing someone as having a “Heart of Gold,” saying something is “Good as Gold,” and, perhaps most memorably, choosing to live by the “The Golden Rule.”

Gold was the very first Christmas gift (along with frankincense and myrrh, of course), and gold was fashioned into gem-encrusted jewelry and priceless objets d'art by the ancient Egyptians. This precious metal also added glistening brilliance to the religious symbols of the Incas, and the Asante people of Africa's Gold Coast so loved crafting their intricate jewelry, that they would periodically melt down their older gold pieces to create new ones.

The Bible even mentions gold and refers to its value -- both in earthly and spiritual terms. The “talent” referred to in the Bible was actually a gold coin which weighed 8.5 grams. In the Book of Matthew, Jesus tells the parable of the King who forgave a debt of 10,000 talents owed him by one of his servants. At today’s retail prices, 85,000 grams of 14K gold would be worth approximately $2 million!

Amazingly, almost all the gold mined in the last 6,000 years is still in the possession of man. If all of this gold were shaped into a cube, it would measure only 60 feet on each side and would fit neatly beneath the Eiffel Tower. This trillion dollar cube would also fit comfortably on the deck of any modern oil tanker. There is a legend that a tiny part of Cleopatra’s crown is in every single piece of gold jewelry in existence today, and that the piece of jewelry you wear today may also contain gold from an Egyptian tomb or from King Solomon’s temple.

In the last 6,000 years, over 125,000 tons of gold has been mined on Earth and the recovery of this gold falls into two categories: before the California Gold Rush of 1848 and after the California Gold Rush. Estimates are that before 1848, only about 10,000 tons of gold had been mined. Thus, approximately 92% of the world’s gold has been produced in the past approximately 150 years. And in the past decade alone, over 2,000 tons of gold has been used each year to make gold jewelry.

Pure gold is 24 karat and is very soft, only a 2.5 - 3 on the Mohs Scale of hardness. (Pure gold is actually softer than coral, lapis, and opal on the Mohs Scale.) One ounce of pure gold can be stretched into a wire an astonishing five miles long and hammered into a sheet so thin, it would cover an area 100 square feet in size and light would pass through it. The word carat (of which the notation for gold, “karat,” is a variation) comes from the Arabic word qirat, which means bean pod. In Oriental bazaars, a carob seed was a unit of weight measurement.

In addition to its use in jewelry, gold is also used as currency; in medicine (gold shots); in the aerospace industry; in the electronics industry; and in dentistry.

True Colors

Alloys are added to pure gold to make it stronger and easier to work with, and also to change its color. Natural yellow gold can be alloyed to create white gold, pink gold, and green gold:

GOLD COLOR CHART

The alloys added to pure 24K gold

• Yellow Gold: Copper and silver. Yellow gold comprises 85% of the gold sold throughout the world.
• White Gold: Nickel, Zinc, Silver, Platinum, and Palladium. White gold symbolizes friendship and is the most important of the colored golds.
• Pink (Rose) Gold: Copper. Pink gold has become increasingly popular and looks lovely when combined with yellow or green gold.
• Green Gold: Silver, Copper, and Zinc Green gold is being used more and more with pink gold and yellow gold and is an important part of Black Hills Gold’s signature grape leaf design.

A Bunch of Karats

The alloys also reduce the amount of pure gold in the piece, and the following chart explains how different karat golds are created:

GOLD KARAT CHART

• 8K 33.3% 333 This is the minimum karat that can be called “gold” in Mexico.
• 9K 37.5% 375 This is a very popular karat gold in Ireland, and it is also the minimum karat that can be called “gold” in Canada.
• 10K 41.7% 417 This is the minimum karat that can be called “gold” in the United States.
• 12K 50% 500 12 karat was abolished in 1932 when the 14K standard was legalized, although some Black Hills gold is still manufactured in 12K.
• 14K 58.3% 585 14 karat is the most popular karat gold sold in the United States.
• 15K 62.5% 625 15 karat was abolished in 1932 when the 14K standard was legalized.
• 18K 75% 750 18 karat is the most popular karat gold sold in Italy and other European countries.
• 19.2K 80% 800 This is a popular karatage in Portugal.
• 20K 83.3% 833 This is a very high karat gold notable for its bright yellow color.
• 22K 91.6% 916 This is another very high karat gold that is popular in Asia and which is very soft due to its small amount of strengthening alloys.
• 23.76K 99% 990 This is 99% pure gold, and is a popular karatage in Hong King, China, and elsewhere in Asia.
• 24K 100% 1000 This is pure gold, with no alloys added. Jewelry is made using pure 24K gold in Turkey, India, and Asia, but it is very soft, somewhat brassy in color, and more expensive.

Gold is an incredibly popular medium for fashion jewelry and, traditionally, the most favored types of gold jewelry, in order of sales, are neckchains, earrings, charms, chain and bangle bracelets, and fashion rings, including wedding rings. It is believed that the ancient Egyptians (who thought that gold was solidified fire) were one of the first (if not the first) people to use a solid gold band as a wedding ring five thousand years ago, believing the endless circle symbolized the eternity of marriage. Today, more than 19 tons of gold are made into wedding rings each year.

The United States is the world’s largest market for gold jewelry and the variety of fashion styles and themes available boasts something for everyone’s taste!

Chains of gold

Throughout the centuries, the gold chain has been the signature jewelry item and the milestone piece chronicling the passage of cultures and civilizations. Gold neckchains, which were being worn as early as the 7th century BC, are now the most popular way to wear gold, and today, women favor rope, link, box, snake, bead, omega, mesh, stampato, and San Marco chains; while men like rope, link, Figaro, Cuban, and Mariner chains. Symbolically, a gold chain is a symbol of love: by placing a chain around the neck of a loved one, you are symbolically linking that person to you.

That’s Italian!

From couture fashions to fast cars to sleek furniture, the Italian design aesthetic is unrivaled in its ability to intrigue us. And nowhere else is the Italian appreciation of beauty more evident than in their magnificent fine-jewelry designs.
Jennifer Leventhal,
JQ Magazine, April/May 1999

Italy is the world’s indisputable leader in gold jewelry manufacturing, and the majority of QVC’s gold is crafted in Italy.

The Italian jewelry industry is 3,000 years old. In fact, wealthy Italian patrons during the Renaissance encouraged goldsmiths much the way they sponsored artists and sculptors and musicians. Today, Italy uses more than 400 tons of gold a year to make the gorgeous Italian jewelry renowned and beloved around the world. An incredible three-quarters of Italy’s jewelry output is exported to Italian jewelry lovers everywhere. Italian gold is associated with quality and antiquity, in a delicate balance with technology and new, innovative designs.

Today, a wardrobe of gold jewelry includes pins, bracelets, earrings, necklaces, clips, pendants, watches, and rings.