Engagement Ring Shopping Scenarios

Who Picks Out the Engagement Ring? Him, Her, or a Multitude?

Since online diamond buying is still only a small fraction of overall diamond sales, the odds are great that when you’re ready to get engaged, you will visit a jewelry store, and one that is almost certainly within 50 miles of where you live.

So here are some insights into the engagement ring buying process. Prepare thyself. ☺

Selling engagement rings was always an interesting experience when I was working in our family jewelry store.

Why? Because it was never really “carved in stone” just to whom I was selling: the guy, the girl, the girl’s parents, the girl’s friends, the guy’s friends, the guy’s parents, or a combination of all of the above.

Here are six typical “engagement ring shopping” scenarios.

1. THE SHOPPING COUPLE: This was the most common scenario I’d see. The couple would come in and the girl would try on rings. She’d decide which one she liked, and then they’d leave. The guy would then come back later, either alone or with a friend, and buy the ring she had picked out. Y’know, so he could surprise her with it. Sometimes, I became part of the charade, usually by acknowledging the guy’s clandestine signal for me to hold the ring for him. Of course, the girl knew what he was doing, but I played along and would usually say something like, “Stop back if you’d like to see it again, or give me a call if you have any questions,” and then hand them my card. In this scenario, I would usually see the guy again within a few hours.
2. THE GIRLFRIEND CONCLAVE: This was also a common scenario. The fiancée to be would come in with her sister, sisters, girlfriend, girlfriends, or a combination of these nearest and dearest and try on rings — turning to her companions for a continuous stream of opinion, advice, and suggestions. She would then ask me to write down the details of the one she liked, and one of her girlfriends would then be given the assignment of getting this info to the boyfriend.
3. THE GUY ON HIS OWN: This was a tough one, because without knowing what his girlfriend liked — and women do know what they like and/or want when it comes to diamond rings — the guy was floundering, and would usually have a bewildered expression on his face that bordered on panic. A three-quarter carat marquise? A full carat round? A half-carat oval? The guy had no idea which one his beloved would love, so he would usually have to come back with someone. Which brings us to ...
4. THE GUY AND HIS GIRLFRIEND’S BEST FRIEND: This scenario was hilarious because, essentially, the girlfriend’s best friend did the shopping. She would try on rings, ask questions, look at matching wedding bands, and I would always work with her while the guy stood there, awaiting the proclamation which would result in him pulling out his credit card. The guy was always confident in this scenario that he was buying the right ring because if there is anything BFFs know, it’s what kind of engagement ring they each want.
5. THE GUY AND HIS FATHER: Sometimes a guy would bring his Dad in with him while looking for rings. This scenario was very close to the “Guy On His Own,” because, in most cases, the father was clueless as to what his son’s girlfriend would want, too. These visits were usually brief.
6. THE GUY AND HIS BUDS: This scenario could be good or bad, depending on who the guy brought with him. If the guy had a friend who had already successfully executed the Engagement Ring Purchase, then he’d be in pretty good shape. But if the one or more friends he brought with him had never done it, then this was usually a fruitless endeavor. His friends would confuse and distract him, and after looking at a few rings, he’d tell me he’d come back. The next time I’d see him would usually be Scenario 4, bringing in his girlfriends best friend. The guy needed help, but he realized his friends would not be much use.

My personal favorite was the Shopping Couple, with the Guy and His Girlfriend’s Best Friend a close second.

Why? Because in those situations, the girl would always get the ring she really wanted. And in the end, that’s all that really matters.

A Jewelry A to Z

This A to Z will familiarize you with jewelry terminology.

• ALLOY: A mixture of two or more metals.
• APPRAISAL: An appraisal is an evaluation of the retail replacement value of a jewelry item. It is done by someone in the jewelry trade who has had enough experience to be able to arrive at a reasonable, fairly accurate approximate cost for replacement in case of loss. Appraisals are usually required by insurance companies before they will insure someone’s jewelry. Appraisals should be provided free of charge on newly purchased items. (Sometimes insurance companies will not except only a sales receipt, since many items are bought on sale and thus, their full replacement cost is not reflected in the amount of the sale.) The replacement cost of the piece, as determined by the jeweler/appraiser, will usually represent what he or she would sell the item for in their store at the time the appraisal is performed. An appraisal should include all pertinent details about the piece, any identifying marks such as engravings or manufacturer’s stamps, and a complete physical description of the piece. Important details include stone identifications; stone weight(s), colors and qualities; gold karat content, weight of the piece; and any other important characteristics. Any experienced jeweler can provide a consumer with an acceptable appraisal. An appraiser does not have to be licensed or “certified.”
• BAIL: A piece on charms, stones, pendants etc., so it may be worn on a chain.
• BASKET SETTING: A fancy setting with numerous side piercings that provides a lacy or basket-looking appearance.
• BEAD A stone cut in the shape of a small sphere.
• BEADED EDGE: A rounded raised edge on a ring or chram.
• BEZEL: A metal groove or flange that holds a gemstone in its setting. Also refers to the slanting face of a cut gem.
• BOX CHAIN: Links are wide and square so they form boxes.
• BUFFING: Polishing with either a cloth or on a high-speed wheel. Buffing usually refers to the polishing of metals, such as silver, gold, or platinum.
• CABOCHON: A domed gemstone. Also a highly polished curved surface without faceting.
• CAMEO: A carved gem or shell in which the outer layers are cut away so that the design stands out in relief against a background of a different color.
• CARAT: Unit of weight for gemstones with 100 points to a carat, with one carat equaling one-fifth of a gram.
• CHAIN: A series of connected loops, links, rings, or beads used for closures on bracelets or necklaces.
• CHANNEL SET: setting Grooved metal built into a jewelry setting for holding stones. Also refers to a number of uniformly sized small stones set in a row.
• CHEVRON STYLE: A motif consisting of short lines joining at angles to form an inverted “V.”
• CLASP: An attachment used to connect the two ends of a necklace, bracelet, or any similar piece of jewelry.
• CLUTCH: The small push-on or screw-on nut that goes on the post of a pierced earring and holds it on the ear.
• CROWN: The little know on a watch used to set the time; also the pronged setting part of a ring used to hold the gemstone or gemstones.
• CURB LINK: The links are oval and twisted so they lie flat.
• DIAMOND: A precious gemstone composed of pure carbon. Hardest of all known substances. Rated 10 on the Mohs scale.
• DIAMOND CUT: The technique of cutting polished facets into the links of gold chain so that the chain sparkles “like a diamond” when it moves.
• DROP: A small, pendant-like piece which is suspended from another part of a piece of jewelry.
• EMERALD CUT: A cut which is usually rectangular, but sometimes square, with rows of step cuts along the edges and at the corners.
• ENGRAVING: The cutting of letters, words, or dates into a ring or onto a piece of tableware such as pewter goblets or silver trays. Engraving can be done by machine or by hand.
• EXTENDER CHAIN: A chain which may be attached to another in order to provide a longer length.
• FACET: The polished surface of a gemstone; a small plane which is cut into a stone and enhances its reflection of light.
• FIGARO: A chain similar in style to a curb chain, but instead of uniform links, the links alternate between long ones and round ones.
• FILIGREE: lace-like ornamental work made from intricately arranged, intertwined wire.
• FINISH: The way the surface of a piece is polished or textured.
• FLUTED: A surface ornamented by channels or grooves.
• FRICTION BACK: A push-on earring clutch.
• FULL-DRILLED: A bead or pearl that is drilled all the way through for stringing on nylon cord. [See half-drilled.]
• GALLERY: A strip of metal used to make settings for jewelry.
• GEM: A stone which has been cut and polished for use in jewelry and fulfills the requirements of beauty, durability, and rarity. A fine stone of unusual quality. Thename for a precious or semi-precious stone.
• GOLD: A heavy, yellow, metallic element used for coins and jewelry since prehistoric times.
• GOLD FINISH: Jewelry done in a finish so that it has the look of gold.
• GOLD-FILLED: A thin layer of gold on top of a base metal.
• GOLD-PLATED: A thin plating of gold on top of a base metal.
• GRADING: The system of evaluating gemstones for color, quality, cut, and finish.
• HALF-DRILLED A bead or pearl that is drilled halfway through for setting on a post in a ring mounting. Half-drilled pearls or beads are usually cemented with epoxy onto the post. [See full-drilled.]
• IRIDESCENT: An interplay of various rainbow-like colors.
• JUMP RING: A link connecting the end of a chain to the clasp; also a link on a pendant or charm through which the chain is threaded so it can be worn around the neck.
• KARAT: A measure, from 1 to 24, used to indicate how much of a piece of jewelry is gold content and how much an alloy.
• LEVERIDGE GAUGE: A round millimeter gauge used for estimating the weight of mounted gemstones.
• LINKS: A series of loops which make up a chain.
• LOBSTER CLAW CLASP: A clasp used for necklaces and bracelets which features an elongated hook (like a lobster claw). It contains a spring mechanism and can be opened to catch the ring from the other end of the chain.
• LOUPE: A small magnifier used by jewelrs to look at gems, and items of jewelry. Available magnifications usually range from 1.5X to 10X.
• LUG: A spring bar that holds a watch strap or watch band to the case of the watch.
• MANDREL: A tapered steel rod used for measuring the finger sizes of rings.
• MANMADE: Synthetic; a gem manufactured in a laboratory and then mass-produced for use in jewelry.
• MARQUISE: An oval shape gemstone cut with pointed ends. It is named for the Marquise de Pompadour, Mistress of King Louis XV.
• MATTE: A frosted, non-shiny surface or finish.
• MOH’S SCALE OF HARDNESS: The standard scale of gemstone hardness used in the jewelry industry.
• MOUNTING: A rin, pendant, or earring setting.
• NICKEL: One of the metal elements added to pure yellow gold to transform it into white gold.
• PENDANT: An ornament suspended from a single chain.
• PIN: A brooch, also sometimes used to describe a watchband spring-bar.
  
• POINT: Unit of weight for gemstones equal to one one-hundreth of a carat.
• POLISH: Process used to make metal smooth and glossy. Increases shine and eliminates flaws.
• POST: The part of a pierced earring that goes through the ear.
• PRONG: One of several claw-like wires used to hold a gem or stone in place.
• RABBIT EARS: A split type of bail hook on the top of a pendant or charm that resembles two rabbit ears.
• RHODIUM: A white, metallic element used as a plating for platinum and white gold to give it a mirror-like finish.
• RIBBED: A textured effect consisting of ridges.
• ROPE CHAIN: Chain with a spiral appearance, giving the effect of two thick strands woven together.
• ROSE GOLD: An alloy of gold and copper.
• ROUGE: A red, white, yellow, or green polishing compound that is used on gold, silver, and platinum jewelry to remove scratches. The rouge is applied directly to a high-speed buffing wheel and the piece is then polished on the wheel. Different colors (and compositions) of rouge are used for different metals.
• SAFETY CATCH: A bracelet or chain clasp that has more than one closing and locking feature for safety.
• SAFETY CHAIN: A thin chain attached to the clasp of a bracelet or a watch that remains in place if the clasp accidentally opens and prevents the piece from falling off the wrist.
• SCALLOPED: An ornamental edge that consists of a series of curves.
• SEED PEARL: A very tiny cultured pearl, usually 2 millimeters or smaller in diameter.
• SETTING: An interchangeable word used to mean a complete ring mounting, as well as the small individual crowns stones are set into within a ring.
• SHANK: The bottom part of a ring; the part that goes around the finger.
• SIZING: Sizing usually refers to the adjusting of a ring size up or down to fit a person’s finger, although it is also used to describe the fitting of a watchband to a wrist. Sizing a ring is done by cutting the shank open with a jeweler’s saw and either removing a piece of gold to bring it down to the right size, or adding a piece of gold to increase the size. The piece is soldered into the shank, the seams are filed out, and then the ring is buffed, polished, and washed.
• SOLDER: To join or repair a piece of jewelry using gold or silver solder and the heat of a torch.
• SPRING RING CLASP: A rounded, hollow, circular wire which fits into a hollow, circular tube and is kept shut by a coiled spring on the inside.
• SQUARE CUT: A style in which the stone is square an bordered by four long narrow facets that are step cut. Similar to emerald cut.
• STAMPING: Marking a piece of jewlery with its karat designation; “14K”; “18K”; etc.
• STEAMING: A method of cleaning jewelry and gemstones using live steam.
• STEP CUT: A gem cut with a varying number of sloping parallel rows of four-sided facets which give the impression of steps.
• STERLING SILVER: Silver that is at least 92.5 percent pure with 7.5 parts of another metal, usually copper, to make the piece harder.
• STRAP: A leather watchband.
• STRINGING: Affixing pearls or gemstone beads to nylon or silk bead cord to make a necklace or bracelet. Stringing can be done with knots between each bead or unknotted.
• STUD: A single stone or metal ball on a straight post worn on pierced ears.
• SYNTHETIC: A manmade gemstone.
• TARNISH: The dark coating that occurs on silver and other metals due to oxidation.
• THE GIA The Gemological Institute of America.
• ULTRASONIC: A method of cleaning jewrelry and gemstones in jewelry cleaning solution in an ultrasonic cleaner.
• WHITE GOLD: An alloy of gold, nickel, copper, and zinc.
• WHITE METALS: Silver, white gold, and platinum.
• “Y” NECKLACE: This style gets its name from its shape which features its own delicate dangle forming a Y-shape around the neck. Usually 16 to 18 inches in length.
• YELLOW GOLD: The most popular gold alloy. An alloy of gold, silver, copper, and often zinc.

All about Apatite!

•What is apatite?
Apatite is a calcium phosphate mineral that occurs in the entire range of transparency, from totally opaque, through translucent specimens, to completely transparent stones. It exists in a wide range of colors and is one of the few gemstones that can be cut faceted as well as cut to show a cat’s eye.

Did you know?
Interestingly, apatite was the favorite gemstone of Dom DeLuise’s girlfriend in the 1980 comedy, Fatso. If you know the movie, which is about a young man trying to lose weight, I’m sure you’d agree that the fact that “apatite” is a homonym for “appetite” was not coincidental!

•Where is apatite found?
Apatite is mined in Myanmar, Sri Lanka, Brazil, Russia, Canada, Africa, Germany, Sweden, Spain, Switzerland, the United States (New York, Maine, North Carolina, and elsewhere), and Mexico.

•Color
Apatite occurs in several colors, including yellow, brown, blue, pink, violet, purple, green, and colorless. Blue apatite can be cut into cabochons to show a cat’s eye. The yellow-green variety of apatite (mostly found in Spain) is known as asparagus stone.

•Shape
Apatite is cut into all the faceted gemstone shapes: round brilliant, oval, pear, marquise, emerald, heart, square, trillion, and fantasy. Neon blue apatite is also cut into cabochons (with a distinctive cat’s eye effect).

•Durability
Apatite is only a 5 on the Mohs Scale and is considered a relatively soft stone. The safest way to wear apatite is in earrings, pendants, and brooches. Rings set with apatite should be worn with care.

•Quality
The quality of faceted apatite stones is evaluated in the same manner as other faceted gemstones: by the presence of (or lack of) internal inclusions and the vividness and uniformity of the individual stone’s color. The quality of neon blue cabochon apatite stones is judged by the smoothness of the stone’s surface texture, the uniformity of its color, and the intensity of the stone’s “cat’s eye” effect.

•Legend and lore
Apatite is reputed to bless the wearer with the ability to accept all things in their lives as they occur, with patience and grace.

•Care
Clean your apatite jewelry in a mild soapy solution, rinse well under warm water and dry with a soft cloth. Do not boil apatite or soak it in ammonia-based jewelry cleaning solution. Also avoid drastic temperature changes.

All about Amber!

•What is amber?
Amber is not a mined gemstone, but rather prehistoric tree resin that has fossilized. Amber has a very appealing golden yellow or yellow-orange color and it has been a popular “stone” for adornment and jewelry since the time of the ancient Romans and Greeks. Some amber even has the fossilized remains of prehistoric insects like flies and other animals trapped inside.

•Where is amber found?
The largest deposits of amber found to date have been along the Baltic Sea coasts of Poland, Latvia, Estonia, etc. Amber is also found in Myanmar (and known as burmite for the country’s former name, Burma); in Sicily, and in the United States, Mexico, France, Germany, Spain, Czechoslovakia, and Canada.

•Color
Amber is almost always yellow or yellow with tones of orange, athough green, black, purple, and red amber have also been discovered. The popular yellow and orange varieties are the ones most often used for jewelry.

•Shape
Amber is very soft and thus can be easily cut and polished into a variety of shapes, the most common being beads and cabochons. Amber can also be cut into cameos and polished flat for setting in rings, pins, earring, and pendants.

•Durability
Amber is a mere 2.5 on the Mohs Scale and, as such, is not a very durable stone for wide-ranging wear. Due to its organic nature, amber is susceptible to drying out and becoming brittle and fragile, thus, it should not be worn when sitting in the sun. Nor should it be worn in water, or while sleeping, or when playing sports. Treat amber carefully and avoid heat, water, harsh chemicals, and perfumes.

•Quality
Amber is not graded by quality; its appeal is purely visual, although the stones with fossils inside are usually considered more valuable because of their rarity. If an amber necklace has beads that mostly match in size, shape, and color, then it is considered a “better” piece, as compared to a strand with irregularly shaped beads and mismatched colors. Other than that type of subjective assessment, though, one piece of amber is essentially as good as the next.

•Legend and lore
Throughout history, amber has been used for a wide range of medicinal uses. It is also reputed to enhance mental clarity and allow the wearer to make decisions from an intellectual perspective instead of an emotional one. Red amber is supposed to exert a calming effect and can also help the wearer detach him- or herself from emotional overreactions and think more logically.

•Care
Clean amber jewelry with a warm, soapy solution with no ammonia in it and pat dry with a soft cloth. Do not immerse amber in jewelry cleaner nor allow it to be steam-cleaned or put into an ultrasonic cleaner. Aagain, amber is an organic substance (not to mention that each piece is millions of years old!) and must be treated with care.

All about Tourmaline!

•What is tourmaline?
Tourmaline is a silicate mineral popular as a gemstone. Tourmaline occurs in the complete range of colors, as well as in a colorless form, and also as multicolored within the same specimen. Tourmaline’s name comes from the Sinhalese word turmali, which means “mixed precious stones.” Pink tourmaline is one of the stones used as the October birthstone; tourmaline is the commemorative gemstone for the 8th wedding anniversary. Popular forms of tourmaline include watermelon tourmaline; rubellite (see the chapter on rubellite); indicolite; dravite; achroite; and schorl; as well as green, pink, blue, yellow, and colorless varieties of tourmaline.

•Where is tourmaline found?
Tourmaline is found in many localities around the world, including Brazil, Africa, the United States, Sri Lanka, Canada, Mexico, Australia, Myanmar, Madagascar, Tanzania, and Namibia.

•Color
Tourmaline occurs in a gorgeous rainbow of colors, including all the shades of green (chrome tourmaline is especially vivid due to the presence of chromium); shades of pink; red (rubellite); shades of blue (indicolite, also known as indigolite); shades of yellow, orange, brown (dravite), gold; black (schorl); multicolored (watermelon tourmaline has bands of green and pink that make it look exactly like the inside of a slice of watermelon!); colorless (achroite); and white.

•Shape
Tourmaline is cut into all the faceted gemstone shapes: round brilliant, oval, pear, marquise, emerald, heart, square, trillion, and fantasy. Watermelon tourmaline is also cut into cabochons.

•Durability
Tourmaline has a hardness of 7 1/2 on the Mohs Scale and is moderately durable. It can be set in mountings with relative safety, and handles the jeweler’s torch and polishing fairly well. It is safe to place tourmaline in an ultrasonic cleaner, but it should not be boiled. It should also not be exposed to excessive heat or drastic temperature changes.

•Quality
The quality of tourmaline is evaluated in much the same way as other translucent gemstones: by the intensity and uniformity of a stone’s color, and the presence or absence of internal inclusions. Many gemstone suppliers use a four-tiered system of grading for tourmalines:

• AAA stones, the rarest stones, are deep pink or chrome green colors and are “eye clean” (no visible internal flaws)
• AA stones are medium colored, either eye clean stones or stones with minor inclusions
• A stones are medium to light colors, with a minor to medium level of inclusions
• B stones are light colors, with moderate inclusions. It should be noted that almost all pink or red tourmalines have natural, internal inclusions of varying degrees of visibility and infiltration.

•Legend and lore
The legends surrounding tourmaline, and the powers attributed to this beautiful gemstone, are many and varied. Blue tourmaline can reputedly assist you in distancing yourself from negative people and events; green tourmaline can aid communications; pink or red tourmaline can reportedly relax the wearer and release tension; yellow varieties of tourmaline can help you think better; watermelon tourmaline can bring stamina and also can communicate to an observer that the wearer of the watermelon tourmaline is a dependable, responsible person.

•Care
You can clean your tourmaline in standard jewelry cleaner, but do not boil it. Soak it for a few minutes, rinse it well under warm (not hot) water, and dry it with a soft cloth. Do not wear tourmaline in the blazing sun; nor expose it to severe temperature changes.

What's Your Birthstone?

Precious gems have long been associated with people's birth month's and one of life's milestones is to be given one's birthstone in a piece of jewelry as a gift.

Here is the list of months and their birthstones:

1. January: Garnet
2. February: Amethyst
3. March: Aquamarine
4. April: Diamond or Cubic Zirconia
5. May: Emerald
6. June: Pearl or Alexandrite
7. July: Ruby
8. August: Peridot
9. September: Sapphire
10. October: Opal or Pink Tourmaline
11. November: Topaz
12. December: Blue Topaz

All about Alexandrite!

•What is alexandrite?
Alexandrite is a rare and unique form of the mineral chrysoberyl that was reportedly discovered in Russia’s Ural Mountains in 1830 on Czar Alexander II’s twelfth birthday and named in his honor. The finest natural alexandrite exhibits a dramatic color change, from vivid green in natural sunlight, to a deep purplish-red under incandescent lights (artificial light). (The color change is a function of the alexandrite crystals refracting the different types of light into distinctly different body colors.) Alexandrite is the genuine birthstone for June and is the commemorative gemstone for the 55th wedding anniversary.

•Where is alexandrite found?
Most alexandrite is found where it was discovered, in the Ural Mountains of Russia, although there also deposits in Brazil and Sri Lanka.

•Color
Alexandrite appears green in natural light and red in artificial light, and the stone occurs in a wide range of intensity of each color, from pale, grayish green to deep forest green; to a brownish lavender to deep purple-red.

•Shape
Alexandrite can be cut into all the faceted gemstone shapes: round brilliant, oval, pear, cushion, marquise, heart, square, trillion, fantasy, and emerald. Alexandrite is rarely cut into cabochons (a highly polished, unfaceted shape) because of the beauty and brilliance revealed when the gem is cut into the faceted shapes.

•Durability
Alexandrite is an extremely tough gemstone and bears up well for setting, polishing, boiling, steaming, and in an ultrasonic cleaner. It has a hardness of 8.5 on the Mohs Scale and is quite durable, making it ideal for use in all manner of jewelry, although its expensive price ultimately limits its widespread use, especially in the larger stones (two carats or over), which are extremely rare.

•Quality
The highest quality alexandrites exhibit strong color change and have no inclusions (flaws) visible to the unaided eye. These are very rare stones. Qualities of alexandrite then range from good to moderate color change with minor inclusions, to light color change with moderate to significant inclusions.

•Legend and lore
Alexandrite is considered to be the gemstone of children born on Friday. It is reputed to bring good luck to the wearer, and can also bring out the more refined and elegant characteristics and attributes of the wearer. If alexandrite is worn on the left hand, it can protect you from enemies. When alexandrite is worn on the chest, it supposedly causes the wearer to be emotionally inhibited, so that alexandrite pendant may not be a good choice for your next date.

•Care
Alexandrite can be cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaning machine (even at boiling temperatures) with standard ammonia-based jewelry cleaner. As with all gemstones, however, avoid drastic temperature changes. Even though it can be boiled, an alexandrite will crack if removed from a boiling solution and immediately placed in cold water. Alexandrite is hard, but so are diamonds, and, as we know, diamonds can chip if struck hard enough and at the right (wrong) spot. And thus, so can alexandrite, so be careful not to bang it against a hard surface.

All about Citrine!

•What is citrine?
Citrine is the yellow variety of quartz. Citrine is often confused with yellow topaz. They are two completely different stones. Citrine is yellow because of the presence of iron, and its name comes from the French word citron, which means “lemon” and the Latin word citrus, which means “a citrus tree.” Yellow citrine is sometimes used as the alternate November birthstone, although topaz is the proper birthstone for that month. Citrine is also the commemorative gemstone for the 13th wedding anniversary.

•Where is citrine found?
Gem quality citrine is rare and found in only a few places, including Brazil (Rio Grande citrine); Spain; Madagascar; Russia; and Colombia (Palmira citrine).

•Color
Citrine occurs naturally in yellow, golden yellow, and orange colors. The most common color of natural citrine is a pale yellow.

•Shape
Citrine can be cut into all the faceted gemstone shapes: round brilliant, oval, pear, marquise, heart, cushion, square, trillion, fantasy, and emerald. It is also cut into cabochons.

•Durability
Citrine has a hardness of 7 on the Mohs Scale and is a relatively durable stone. It can be set, polished, cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner, and boiled and steamed with care. Also, mountings set with citrine stones can be worked on with a torch with relative safety.

•Quality
The highest quality genuine citrines are an orangey-red color and are exceptionally rare. Most good quality commercial citrines are yellow or yellow-orange and, as with all translucent gemstones, the absence of internal inclusions (flaws) signifies a higher quality stone.

•Legend and lore
Citrine is reputed to have a calming effect on its wearers. It can supposedly provide a feeling of stability and can enhance stamina in all aspects of your being. Citrine is also supposed to help hyperactive, “Type-A,” workaholics slow down a little. (It is not known if lots of coffee negates this effect!)

•Care
Citrine can be cleaned with ammonia-based jewelry cleaner and is safe to clean in an ultrasonic cleaning machine. At home, you can soak your citrine jewelry in standard jewelry cleaner, rinse under hot water, and dry with a soft cloth. Do not boil citrine nor subject it to intense temperature changes (i.e., allowing the stone to become extremely hot and then running it under cold water).

The Mohs Gem Hardness Scale

The Mohs Scale, named for the German mineralogist Friedrich Mohs, is the most commmonly used scale in the jewelry industry to rank the relative hardness of gemstones.

The term “hardness” refers to the resistance of a mineral to scratching. The hardest mineral on Earth, diamond, ranks as a 10 on the Mohs.

On this site, we refer to the Mohs ranking of the hardness of a stone. This information will be helfpul in understanding the care necessary for each gemstone, and will advise you as to how resistant each stone is to nicks, cracks, and scratches.

During my twenty-five year career as a jeweler, there were many occasions when I would have to inform a customer that their sapphire, or opal, or blue topaz stone had a serious chip in it and that one more blow would probably fracture the stone in two.

This is also possible with the ultra-hard diamond -- their girdles can chip and in severe cases, a diamond can actually be cracked if struck hard enough and at just the right spot. The “cleavage planes” in a diamond (and all other natural, mined gemstones) that allow cutting and polishing are also the weak points in a stone.

Knowing the hardness of a gemstone can make a person more aware of how to treat a ring so as not to damage the stone.

MOHS SCALE OF GEMSTONE HARDNESS

• 1: Talc
• 2: Gypsum
• 2.5 Amber
• 3: Calcite, Coral
• 4: Fluorite, Malachite
• 5: Apatite, Variscite
• 5.5: Lapis Lazuli
• 5.5 - 6.5: Chrome Diopside
• 6: Amazonite, Opal, Rhodonite, Turquoise
• 6 - 6.5: Feldspar, Moonstone, Zircon
• 6.5: Hematite, Nephrite, Peridot
• 6.5 - 7: Tanzanite
• 6.5 - 7.5: Garnet
• 7: Agate, Amethyst, Carnelian, Citrine, Iolite, Kunzite, Jadeite, Onyx, Quartz, Tiger’s Eye
• 7 - 7.5 Iolite
• 7.5: Andalusite, Aquamarine, Emerald, Morganite, Tourmaline
• 8: Spinel, Topaz
• 8.5 Alexandrite, Cat’s Eye
• 9: Ruby (Corundum), Sapphire (Corundum)
• 10: Diamond

All about Tiger's Eye!

•What is tiger’s eye?
Tiger’s eye is a translucent to opaque form of quartz known for the band of white that appears in the center of tiger’s eye stones that are cut into cabochons. Even though they are often confused with each other, tiger’s eye is not the same as cat’s eye.

•Where is tiger’s eye found?
Tiger’s eye is found in Sri Lanka, India, Brazil, Australia, and the United States.

•Color
Tiger’s eye occurs naturally in a range of browns, including golden-brown, yellowish-brown, and reddish-brown. It also occurs in a black variety and occasionally in a bluish form. The dark honey-brown with black stripes is a very popular form of tiger’s eye, and is often used in men’s jewelry such as cufflinks and tie tacks.

•Shape
Tiger’s eye is rarely, if ever cut into the faceted gemstone shapes. It is almost always cut into cabochons (to highlight the “eye” effect), cut and polished into beads, and carved into figurines.

•Durability
Tiger’s eye is a 7 on the Mohs Scale and can be worn under most circumstance with relatively safety. It can be cut and polished with ease and its cabochon shape (which usually mandates that the stone be set into a protective bezel) gives it protection against girdle chips and fractures common to faceted gemstones.

•Quality
Due to its opaque nature, the quality of tiger’s eye is determined by the beauty and distinctiveness of its “eye” and the appeal and uniformity of its color. It is a relatively inexpensive gemstone so fine color specimens are readily available. As always when you’re considering the purchase of a gemstone for which a “Quality Scale” (as exists for diamonds, etc.) does not apply, the visual appeal of a stone should be your guiding light.

•Legend and lore
Tiger’s eye is reputed to be able to soften personal stubbornness, if that is a dominant trait of the wearer. It is also reported to facilitate the relaxation response, and allow people who are wound a little too tight to “unwind.”

•Care
You can clean tiger’s eye in standard jewelry cleaner, but do not soak it too long. In fact, the safest way to clean it would be to swish it around in the cleaner, give it a good brushing, and then rinse it well under warm water. This should brighten it up and allow the beauty of the “eye” to be seen.

All about Turquoise!

•What is turquoise?
Turquoise is a completely opaque, blue to bluish-green mineral made of aluminum and copper that is extremely popular for setting in sterling silver and has long been associated with Native American jewelry. Turquoise is used as the December birthstone and is the commemorative gemstone for the 11th wedding anniversary.

•Where is turquoise found?
The finest turquoise is found in Iran, where it has been mined since 1000 BC. Turquoise of varying colors and qualities is also found in Mexico, China, on the Sinai Peninsula in Egypt; in Russia, Chile, Australia, England; and the southwest United States, especially New Mexico and Arizona. Currently, the southwest U. S. is the world’s largest source for turquoise.

•Color
Turquoise occurs in shades of blue, with deep, vivid blue being the most popular, as well as the rarest. Turquoise also occurs in shades of blue-green to a completely green variety.

•Shape
Turquoise is cut into cabochons (one of its most popular uses), fashioned and polished into beads of varying shapes, and also used for cameos. Because of its opaque nature (meaning light cannot penetrate the stone and disperse through facets as it does in translucent and transparent stones), turquoise is rarely cut into the faceted gemstone shapes.

•Durability
Turquoise is only a 6 on the Mohs Scale and is, therefore, not as durable as harder stones. Turquoise is susceptible to being chipped or cracked during wear, so care should be exercised when wearing turquoise jewelry (especially rings). Also, turquoise should not be boiled or subjected to excessive heat changes. Turquoise’s opaque nature means that it is usually set into bezels which do serve to protect it against damage, but be cautious nonetheless.

•Quality
The highest quality turquoise is a deep blue color with no surface marks or off-color areas. The opaque nature of turquoise eliminates the possibility of grading the stone by its internal inclusions, so color (blue is the more valuable) and surface perfection are the criteria by which high quality turquoise is judged.

•Legend and lore
Turquoise has long been used by Native Americans for assuring good fortune. Wearing turquoise can also shift one’s emotional center towards love and enhance the wearer’s feeling of “oneness” and unity with other people.

•Care
Do not clean your turquoise with anything other than mild soap and water. Do not soak it in the solution, though; wet a cloth, wash the piece, and then rinse it well. Polishing the stone (and its sterling silver mountings) with a soft jeweler’s rouge cloth will also keep it looking bright and clean.

All about Coral!

•What is coral?
The coral used for jewelry is an organic substance that is actually the skeleton of a small marine animal called a coral polyp. These creatures live in branching colonies that form coral reefs and atolls as the lower levels of members die and the newer members grow on top of them. Coral’s chemical composition is calcium carbonate (but it is not recommended that it be used as a calcium supplement!).

•Where is coral found?
Coral is found in warm waters off the coast of Japan, and also in the Red Sea, and along the Mediterranean, African, and Malaysian coasts. Black and golden coral (made of conchiolin) is found in the waters around the West Indies, Australia, and along the coasts of many of the Pacific Islands.

•Color
Coral comes in lovely shades of red and pink (the most popular hues), as well as the rarer white, black, blue, and golden colors. Japanese coral is always red, pink, or white.

•Shape
Coral is either hand-carved (both for setting into jewelry and for making figurines); cut and polished into cabochon (domed) shapes; or fashioned into beads for stringing. Because of its organic nature (and softness) coral is never faceted like other harder, mined gemstones. Oval cabochons are a very popular use of coral, and are often found in rings, pendants, and earrings.

•Durability
On the Mohs 1 to 10 Hardness Scale, coral is a mere 3, and, thus, is considered a very delicate gemstone. It can chip or crack if banged on a hard surface, such as the edge of a filing cabinet or a faucet. Also, because of its calcium carbonate nature, it should not be exposed to acids (such as the juice from an orange on your fingers), nor should it be sprayed with cologne, powder, or hairspray. (Put your coral jewelry on after using your scents and sprays.) Coral is also sensitive to heat and can crack or break if boiled or exposed to excessive heat. Also, repeated exposure to water may make its color fade. It is therefore not recommended to wear coral while swimming or showering. A tip: Treat your coral the way you would your pearls.

•Quality
A deep, vivid red color and a smooth luster are often considered marks of a quality coral piece. Black coral should be highly polished and almost look like onyx. White coral with a tinge of pink — known as angel skin coral — can be expensive and has been used extensively in jewelry in recent years. As with all organics (pearl, amber, ivory, shell, etc.), the beauty of a piece is in the eye of the beholder and many people delight in the natural “wood grain” lines and imperfections of a “less than perfect” piece of coral.

•Legend and lore
According to legend, coral can protect children, cure madness, impart wisdom, stop bleeding, calm storms, prevent sterility, and allow travelers to safely cross large bodies of water. Coral is also rumored to create an emotional openness in its wearer and to generate excitement and enthusiasm.

•Care
Coral jewelry should be gently cleaned with warm water and a mild detergent, such as a dishwashing solution. Do not immerse coral in any solutions containing ammonia or any other harsh solvents. (Note: Commercial jewelry cleaning solutions often contain ammonia or other chemicals which will harm coral.) Rinse the piece thoroughly in warm water and pat dry with a towel or paper towel. Do not boil coral jewelry and do not dry it by using a heater or blow dryer.

All about Onyx!

•What is onyx?
Onyx is a form of the quartz mineral chalcedony that occurs in many colors and in semitranslucent to completely opaque forms. The gemstone commonly called “black onyx” is chalcedony that has been dyed completely black, thereby eliminating the natural color bands that often occur in chalcedony, similar to those found in agate. Black onyx is one of the commemorative gemstones for the 7th wedding anniversary.

•Where is onyx found?
The noble stone onyx (a gemstone must surely be held in high regard to be carved into chess pieces, as is onyx!) in all its forms and colors, and in all varieties of translucency and color banding intensity, is found in every country on earth.

•Color
Natural onyx occurs in many colors. including red, orange, apricot, several shades of brown and cream, and in variations of these hues. Sardonyx, a combination of sard (a brownish-red chalcedony) and onyx, is usually the color of rust with white color banding. Black onyx, as noted above, is chalcedony dyed pure black. Other dyed varieties of onyx include the colors blue, green, and red.

•Shape
Onyx is cut and polished into beads of all shapes; carved into cameos and intaglios, cut and polished into both cabochons and flat-top, nonfaceted stones; and fashioned into figurines and chess pieces. Onyx’s striking color and smooth texture make it an especially appealing medium for carvings and figurines.

•Durability
Onyx is a hard 7 on the Mohs Scale and is a relatively tough stone to work with. It is suitable for regular wear in rings, earrings, pendants. although colored onyx with distinct banding is going to be more vulnerable to chipping because of its layered nature.

•Quality
Onyx is plentiful and affordable and its quality is therefore determined by the intensity (and personal appeal) of its color, the smoothness of its texture, and the absence of surface imperfections like cracks or pitting. Interestingly, in many cases, the “value” of a particular piece of onyx sculpture or jewelry will increase if there is obvious craftsmanship or a superior artistic element to the piece. For instance, an intricately carved, artistically superior onyx cameo will be worth more, and will be considered of higher quality, than a cameo of lesser craftsmanship. All black onyx is usually considered of equal quality as long as the color is uniform and the cutting of the stone is competent; the value of black onyx increases proportionately for the larger stones.

•Legend and lore
According to legend, onyx can relieve pain when placed on the bellies of women in labor, as well as protect its wearer from the “evil eye.” Onyx is also reputed to balance the “female energies” present in everyone, both male and female. The darker onyx stones are said to enhance the power energies of males; the lighter onyx stones are “gentler” stones and will more readily empower women than men.

•Care
Do not clean your onyx jewelry in an ammonia-based jewelry cleaner. Instead, soak it in a mild soapy solution and rinse it thoroughly under warm to hot water. Dry your onyx jewelry with a soft cloth and do not store it in direct sunlight. Also, black onyx, because of its dyed nature, should not be exposed to intense, direct sunlight or heat, immersed in chemical solutions, nor should it be worn while swimming or showering.

A Pearl Primer

Some ask’d how pearls did grow, and where?
Robert Herrick
“The Rock of Rubies, and the Quarry of Pearls”

Nature has blessed its many creations with a wide range of ways to defend themselves. The several species of mollusks that produce pearls possess one of the more unique (and effective) methods.

The glorious and beloved pearl, in all its delightful variations, is made of an organic substance called nacre (aragonite). In order to protect their sensitive inner surfaces, certain types of shellfish (especially the bivalve oyster and the mussel), secrete nacre around an irritant, such as a pebble, or a deliberately inserted (by man) bead. Layer after layer of nacre is added until the object we know as a pearl is formed.

Natural pearls occur when the irritant is accidental; i.e., a tiny sea creature or a rock somehow ends up inside an open oyster. These types of pearls are completely oyster-made and are very rare and, thus, quite expensive. Natural pearls come in shades of white and cream and the rarest color, black. They are often irregular in shape and tend to be not as perfectly round as cultured pearls. There are many sources for natural pearls around the world, including the Red Sea, the Indian Ocean, and the Persian Gulf, although their cost prohibits their routine use in jewelry.

Cultured pearls come into being when man gives nature what you might describe as a little “push,”: Pearl farmers deliberately implant an irritant -- usually a mother-of-pearl bead -- in a mollusk. The oyster reacts to this “intruder” in the same way as if the invading object was randomly introduced into its body. The living creature builds layer upon layer of nacre around the bead until the growth resembles the familiar gem we know as a pearl.

Cultured Pearls

Cultured pearls were developed in Japan in 1904 by Kokichi Mikimoto, although the first attempt to culture pearls dates back to an attempt allegedly made by the Arabs of the Red Sea in the second century BC, as chronicled by the Greek writer Apollomius of Tyre (although many historians doubt Apollumius’s claims).

The largest producer of cultured pearls today is Japan. China is also a major supplier. Another important source of cultured pearls are the coastal waters of Tahiti and many of the other Polynesian Islands, as well as the coastal waters of Australia.

Only one out of every twenty oysters contains a valuable pearl. Cultured pearls range in size from 2 millimeters to 8 or even 9 millimeters. (Helpful Tip: There are 25 millimeters in an inch, which makes it simple to calculate how many pearls of a given size make up an inch. For example, five 5 millimeter pearls make up one inch of pearls; while it takes eight 3 millimeter pearls to equal an inch, etc.).

Cultured pearls are graded and evaluated by five factors: Luster, Size, Shape, Surface, and Color. Let’s look at these characteristics one at a time.

• Luster: Luster, which is also called “orient,” is the way light reflects off the surface of the pearl and is often described as the sheen. Pearls range in quality from a very high luster -- an intense, brilliant reflection off its surface -- to low luster -- a dull, flat appearance that has almost no reflection whatsoever. The luster of a high quality strand of pearls is one of its most appealing visual elements and is often the deciding factor when purchasing pearls. There is nothing more dramatic than placing on a black velvet showcase pad a high luster strand of pearls right next to a same-size strand with very low luster. The contrast is striking and effectively illustrates the differences between pearls of varying sheen.
• Size: As previously discussed, cultured pearls most often occur in sizes from 2 millimeters to 9 millimeters in diameter. The size of the pearl is determined by the size of the implanted bead and the thickness of the nacre growth. (Tiny cultured pearls from 1 millimeter to 1.75 millimeters in diameter are referred to as “seed pearls.”) As the size of cultured pearls goes up, so does the price, with the most expensive being the rare 7, 8, and 9 millimeter pearls. Lately, 5 to 6 millimeter pearls have been extremely popular and affordably priced. “Half-drilled” pearls are used in rings and earrings; “full-drilled” pearls are used for stringing on nylon bead cord for necklaces and bracelets.
• Shape: Cultured pearls grow in nature in many shapes, including round, oval, pear, button, and other forms. For a traditional look, the perfectly round pearls are the rarest, the most prized, and usually the most expensive. The other shapes of pearls often lend themselves to interesting and appealing uses, such as earrings, brooches, and in free-form rings. Strands require round pearls (as closely matched in shape as possible) but there are many opportunities for the use of other shape pearls in a wide range of jewelry pieces.
• Surface: This term is used to describe the imperfections found on the surface of a cultured pearl. These include bumps, blisters, cracks, spots, and welts. Better pearls are free from large blemishes. When selecting a strand of pearls, each pearl should match as closely as possible the others on the strand. (Some minor blemishes can be effectively eliminated in pearls for stringing by drilling the pearl at the site of the imperfection, although this is usually not practical when the pearls have many bumps or cracks.) As with other gemstones, the “cleaner” the pearl, the more expensive the pearl. However, tiny marks on pearls should be viewed as part of their basic nature. They should not be considered a detriment; they are, in fact a hallmark of the pearl’s natural essence.
• Color: Pearls range in color from light to dark, in a wide range of body colors and with a variety of overtones. Light pearls come in soft shades of pink, white, or cream. Dark pearls are called black and includes pearls that are silver-grey, dark blue, purple, blue-green, green, and bronze; with or without metallic overtones. Colored pearls come in light to medium shades of yellow, green, blue, violet, purple or gray. Color is more common in freshwater pearls than in saltwater pearls.

Pearl Questions & Answers

What is an Akoya Pearl?
Akoyas are saltwater pearls cultivated in Akoya oysters in Japan and China. They are slightly rosy; many are naturally pinkish; some are naturally pewter grey; they are roundish in shape; and they range from 2 to 9 millimeters in size. Today, Japanese Akoya pearls are unrivaled in their color and luster.

What is a Baroque Pearl?
A baroque pearl is a pearl that is uneven in surface texture, regardless of its shape. Baroque pearls can range from pear-shaped to very irregular and unusual shapes.

What is a Black Pearl?
A black pearl is a natural pearl formed when a high amount of mineral salts are present in the waters where the mollusk is found. It is believed that other factors influencing the formation of black pearls are the type of plankton the oyster consumes as well as the specific species of oyster. An important source for black pearls today is French Polynesia (especially the waters around Tahiti).

What is a Blister Pearl?
A blister pearl is a pearl that is formed while attached to the wall of a mollusk which must be removed along with part of the oyster’s shell. Blister pearls vary in size and shape.

What is a Circle Pearl?
Circle pearls are a relatively new subspecies of the baroque pearl that many pearl aficionados have noted resemble fancy Christmas tree ornaments. A circle pearl is a cultured freshwater or saltwater pearl that has concentric circles running around its diameter, producing an intriguing “ribbed” look. Recently, strands of 10 millimeter and larger circle pearls have become very popular due to their unique look and ultra-affordability.

What is a Freshwater Cultured Pearl?
Freshwater cultured pearls are grown in lakes and rivers in the United States and in Japan and China. They come in several colors, including white, pink, lavender, peach, apricot, and beige. Chinese freshwater pearls boast excellent color, luster, and value. Some freshwater pearls look like grains of rice; some are ovalish; and some are close to being completely round.

What are Honora Pearls?
Honora pearls are a nearly round type of freshwater pearl.

What are Mabe Pearls?
Mabes are half-sphere pearls that are cultured against the inside shell of an oyster. Mabe pearls have one completely flat side.

What is Mother-of-Pearl?
Mother of Pearl is the pearly internal layer of a mollusk shell. Mother-of-Pearl is often used as a decorative gem and as watch dials.

What is a South Sea Pearl?
A South Sea pearl is a large saltwater pearl averaging from 10 to 20 millimeters in size. It is cultivated in the oceans around Australia, Myanmar, Indonesia and other South Sea countries. South Sea pearls occur in round, off-round, and baroque shapes. They are plentiful and their colors range from white and gold to pastel shades. The industry magazine Modern Jeweler said in their March 1999 issue that “The South Sea pearl is for the customer who wants something of great prestige and is willing to pay whatever it takes to get it.” Golden South Sea pearls from Australia are the rarest of the South Sea pearls.

Pearl Fashion Tips

Pearls are subtle, gracefully elegant and they go with everything: They look lovely with suits and dresses and also add a stylish accent to sportswear and even jeans and t-shirts. Many women consider a strand of pearls, a pair of pearl earrings, and a pearl ring to be three very important components of their basic jewelry wardrobe.

• Dark-skinned women look best in pearls with a gold tint.
• Pink complexions are most complemented by pearls with a creamy rose color.
• Pearl chokers look best on long necks.
• Uniform strands are the most popular style of pearl necklace today.
• Graduated strands look best on short and wide necks.
• Pearl earrings with diamonds call attention to the eyes and hair.
• A single strand of pearls is perfect for daily wear at the office; a multi-strand necklace is the ultimate accessory for evening wear.

Legend and Lore About Pearls

The world pearl comes from the Latin word sphaerula which means “sphere.” Pearls were among the first natural objects to be valued by man and the largest pearl in the world is the Pearl of Asia, which weighs an astonishing 605 carats.

Pearls were once believed to be the tears of the gods, and ancient Greeks believed that pearls were drops of moisture flung from Aphrodite’s body as she emerged from the sea and shook off the water.

Cleopatra possessed two magnificent pear-shaped natural pearls. When Marc Antony questioned her love for him, she came up with a dramatic way of proving it: she dissolved one of her precious pearls in a goblet of wine and then drank the wine.

The pearl fisheries of the Persian Gulf are at least 2,000 years old, and in China, pearls were worn for adornment more than 3,000 years ago.

Pearls represent purity, modesty, and gentleness. They are also symbolic of the moon, and signify hidden talents, sexual fulfillment, and the soul.

Jesus refers to pearls in his Sermon on the Mount: In Matthew 7:6, he says, “Give not that which is holy unto the dogs, neither cast ye your pearls before swine, lest they trample them under their feet...”

In 1917, Pierre Cartier paid for a New York mansion on Fifth avenue with a double-strand pearl necklace. Today, that mansion is Cartier’s world headquarters.

Pearl Lengths and Sizes

• Choker: 15 inches.
• Chute: 16 to 18 inches.
• Collar: 16 inches, with a flat design.
• Dog collar: 13 or 14 inches, consisting of several rows of pearls and worn very snug around the neck.
• Matinee length: 22 inches.
• Opera length: 30 inches.
• Princess length: 20 or 21 inches.
• Rope: 40 inches or longer.
• Standard (traditional) length: 18 inches.
• Torsade: Several strands of pearls (usually freshwater) twisted together into one strand. Sometimes different colored strands of freshwater pearls are used for a torsade, providing a striking multi-colored look.
• Lariat: A long strand with decorated ends that are tied or looped instead of clasped.
• Earrings: Usually 4 to 9 millimeters in size.
• Uniform: A strand of pearls that are all one size, ranging from small 3 millimeter pearls to 9 or even 10 millimeter pearls.
• Graduated: A strand of pearls with one large center pearl and progressively smaller pearls tapering down to the ends.

Caring for Your Pearls

• Pearls strands should be worn around your neck at least twice a month. The contact with your skin keeps the pearls moisturized and wearing them allows them to fall naturally and gracefully.
• Pearls should be the last thing you put on and the first thing you take off. Hair spray, colognes, and makeup will damage the pearl’s organic nacre and will eventually ruin them.
• Do not swim while wearing your pearls. Chlorine and saltwater will damage the pearls themselves and water will also saturate and fray the bead cord on which they are strung.
• Wipe your pearls with a soft cloth after each wearing.
• Pearls should sit snugly up against each other with a small knot between each pearl. With regular wear, knotted strands will loosen and you will begin to notice a space between the pearls and the knots. This is your cue to have them restrung. Depending on wear, a complete restringing every two to three years is wise. (Some experts recommend annual restringing, although this does seem a bit excessive.)
• Pearl stud earrings can be washed gently with mild soap and water. Be sure to dry them thoroughly with a soft cloth.
• Do not let your pearl jewelry rub up against your other jewelry.
• Never place pearls in an ultrasonic cleaner and never have them steam-cleaned.

Ransack the ocean for orient pearl.

Christopher Marlowe
Doctor Faustus

All about Jade!

•What is jade?
“Jade” is an umbrella term used to describe two specific minerals, jadeite and nephrite. In 1863, the French chemist Augustine Damour identified the two types of jade, although the differences between jadeite and nephrite had been known to the Chinese since the mid-18th century. Jadeite is the more valuable, and also the rarer of the two, as well as being the harder of the two varieties of the gemstone. The finest jadeite is called Imperial jade. Jadeite is the jade most often used for jewelry today.

Nephrite is not as hard as jadeite, but its interlocking crystalline structure, ironically, makes it a little stronger, and nephrite is the variety of jade most often selected for carvings, figurines, and was even used for weapons (such as daggers and clubs) in ancient times.

•Where is jade found?
Jadeite is found in Myanmar (formerly Burma), Russia, Japan, Guatemala; and California in the United States. (The finest jadeite comes from Myanmar.) Nephrite is found in China, Siberia (dark green), Taiwan, New Zealand, Switzerland, Brazil, British Columbia, Australia (black), Poland, Germany, India, Canada, Zimbabwe (dark green), Mexico; and in Alaska, California, and Wyoming in the United States.

•Color
Jadeite occurs in a wide range of colors, including the complete range of greens (including speckled green), lavender, brown, honey-yellow, white, black, and grey. Nephrite is mostly green, with gray, black, or brown undertones. Nephrite also occurs in a completely gray or black variety, and also in a grayish-white form sometimes referred to as “mutton-fat” jade and especially favored for carving figurines.

•Shape
Both forms of jade are cut and polished into beads, cut into cabochons, and carved into cameos, intaglios, and figurines. Jade is occasionally cut into the faceted gemstone shapes such as round brilliant or marquise, although cabochon is the more popular and more traditional style for jade.

•Durability
Jadeite has a hardness of 7 on the Mohs Scale; nephrite, a 6 1/2, and both are extremely tough and excellent to work with. Both carve well, set well, and can handle the jeweler’s torch with little if any problems. Sometimes, extremely porous jadeite may be impregnated with jeweler’s wax to stabliize extremely fragile natural “tunnels” in the stones (a common in the industry) and the larger cabochons treated in this manner may occasionally exhibit some pitting under prongs, but this can be prevented by having the stones periodically checked by a professional and repositioning the stone if necessary. Overall, jade is a very durable stone that can be worn safely under almost all circumstances.

•Quality
The quality of both types of jade is determined by:

• the intensity and uniformity of a stone’s body color (dark green is considered the highest quality, followed by lavender, red, yellow, white, and black)
• the number of flaws, cracks, spots, and blotchy areas (the fewer, the better)
• its texture, polish and finish (a smooth surface with a fine “grain” and a brilliant luster are a higher quality than a coarse, rough surface and a dull finish)
• a semi-transparent or extremely translucent visual appearance (light should seem to “enter” the stone as compared to stopping flatly at the surface of a nonreflective stone).

•Legend and lore
How jade received its name is a fascinating story. When Spanish conquistadors invaded Mexico in the 16th century, they discovered that the natives were wearing jade to cure kidney problems, so the conquistadors called the beautiful stone piedra de ijada, which translates to “stone of the loins.” Interestingly, the ancient Romans also believed that jade was a cure for inflammation of the kidneys, known as “nephritis.” Thus, the Romans called jade by the Latin term lapis nephriticus, which eventually was shortened and Anglicized to nephrite. Jade’s range of “natural” colors has long been associated with the bounties of nature, and many believe that the stone is a gift from God.

Jade has various mystical and spiritual properties attributed to it, including inner purity, higher consciousness, intellectual superiority, the art of music, and the virtue of loyalty. It also represents good fortune and abounding health and many wear it as an emblem of these attributes. Jade is also reputed to stimulate optimism and promote understanding of the opposite sex. Also, white jade can purportedly cure intestinal trouble, while black jade is believed to imbue the wearer with strength.

•Care
Clean your jade jewelry in a mild soapy solution (don’t soak it more than a few minutes) and rinse it well under warm water. Avoid exposihg jade to excessive heat, as some forms of color-treated jade may fade; also avoid chemicals such as ammonia-based jewelry cleaner and harsh chemical cleaners.

Silver!

The Queen of Metals

Silver is special...and a litany of superlatives is needed to do justice to its wonders: Of the three precious metals -- gold and platinum being the other two -- silver is the most abundant, the most lustrous, the most reflective, the least expensive, the “whitest of the white metals,” the easiest to work with, and the very first of the precious metals to be used to make jewelry.

Silver was being used in Egypt over 5500 years ago and silver headbands from prehistoric times have been found in Spain.

There are many references to silver in the Bible, one of the most notable being a comparison of the words of the Lord to purified silver in Psalms 12:6: “The words of the Lord are pure words, as silver tried in a furnace of earth, purified seven times.”

For all its popularity as jewelry, silver’s most important use is as monetary currency. Fully two-thirds of the world’s population use silver as money.

Silver has the same hardness as gold, around 2 1/2 on the Mohs Scale and, like gold, silver can be hammered so thin light will pass through it.

The leading producers of silver are the United States, Mexico, Canada, Peru, Russia, and Australia and each year, the United States uses 15 million troy ounces of silver for jewelry.

How Sterling Silver Got Its Name

Sterling silver is 92.5% silver and 7.5% alloy, usually copper, nickel and zinc. For decades, German silversmiths refined silver for the English, adding alloys to pure silver to make a stronger, brighter metal that was then used in England to make tableware, drinking vessels, and, of course, jewelry. The English called the Germans “Easterlings” because as a people they had settled east of Great Britain. German silver, thus, became known as “Easterling” silver and eventually the “ea” was dropped and the metal became known simply as “sterling silver.” The Germans’ “recipe” for sterling silver survives to this day.

Silver: A Shining Fashion Star

Silver jewelry is popular around the world: Women in Egypt and India favor silver anklets; Hindu women wear silver bangles and silver toe rings; American Indian silver jewelry is enormously popular.

Silver is a wonderfully appealing luminous metal that is both affordable and precious and the world supply of silver is gigantic, thus assuring affordability and innovative design experimentation for decades to come.

Silver fits in nicely with casual fashion styles but it is versatile enough to also work beautifully with dressy, designer styles. Earrings are the best-selling category of silver jewelry, followed by neckwear. Silver bracelets with and without gemstones are a perennial favorite.

Other popular silver jewelry styles include big rings with faceted colored stones ranging from pastels to the deeper colored gems; silver chokers; satin finishes; and silver mixed with yellow gold in both 14K and 18K as accents, creating a striking two-tone effect.

Silver Linings

Silver is associated with the Moon, psychic energy, and purity. Silver also symbolizes peace, sincerity, chastity, eloquence, joy, and knowledge. The 25th wedding anniversary is known as the Silver Anniversary.

Platinum!

Precious Platinum

Platinum has long been called the most precious of metals and the reasons it has earned that title is because of its rare and special qualities; characteristics not found in any of the other noble metals (gold and silver).

Platinum was discovered in Ecuador and Columbia before the fifteenth century. The Spaniards found large deposits of platinum in South America in 1750. By the 1920s, two-thirds of all the platinum mined was being used in the United States.

Platinum is one of the heaviest and densest substances known to man. If the identical piece of jewelry were to be made in silver and platinum, the platinum piece would weigh twice as much as the silver piece. Platinum is also the hardest of the three precious metals and is three times as durable as gold.

Platinum jewelry in the United States is either 90 or 95 per cent pure platinum. Iridium or ruthenium is often added to platinum as a strengthening alloy and to maximize platinum’s white beauty. In the United States, the abbreviations PT or plat indicate platinum; in Europe, the mark 950 (indicating 95% purity) is used to denote platinum.

In addition to its popularity for jewelry (it’s beautiful, durable, and completely hypoallergenic), platinum’s resistance to heat, rust, tarnish, and corrosion makes it perfect for use in cardiac pacemakers; as heat- and chemical-resistant lab containers; and in automobile catalytic converters.

Ten tons of ore must be mined for every ounce of platinum. (It takes three tons of ore to obtain one ounce of gold; and an astonishing 250 tons of ore to acquire a single 1-carat diamond.)

Less than 100 tons of platinum are produced each year worldwide, compared to 1,500 tons of gold.

Platinum is mined in Russia, Columbia, Alaska, South Africa, and Canada and is extremely labor intensive: It takes a full five months to process ore to pure platinum (gold takes about a month); and the polishing process for platinum takes far longer and requires more steps than does gold.

Style & Elegance

Platinum has been used for jewelry since the turn of the century, although the advent of World War II completely eliminated the use of platinum for jewelry. Why? Because platinum was declared a strategic metal by the United States government and all of the platinum produced ended up being used for electrical contacts, in heat-resistant gear, in dentistry, and as corrosion-proof wire. During World War II, even actress Mae West sold her diamond and platinum jewelry to help the war cause.

Platinum is the purest of the white metals and today is associated with luxury and elegance; although even jewelry lovers on a modest budget can wear platinum. Platinum has also become an extremely popular choice for diamond engagement rings and wedding bands; and platinum watches have become popular for the consumer (especially men) wanting a unique and special timepiece.

Another very popular fashion style today is to mix platinum with 18K yellow gold, creating a sleek and elegant two-tone look.

The platinum and diamond bow brooch -- originally popularized in the early 20th century -- is now again in fashion as a stunning accessory for both daytime wear on suits and for evening wear on gowns and dresses.

Interestingly, even though platinum is not a commemorative metal for a wedding anniversary, in Italy, platinum has been designated as the gift to give for someone’s 18th birthday. Since the 18th is unquestionably a milestone birthday, the Italian jewelry industry has decided that only platinum would do for such a momentous event!

For the Exceptional Person...

Platinum is for the jewelry lover who wants a sleek, cool, classic look. When highly polished, platinum can be as reflective as mirror; when buffed to a satin finish, the metal has a soft, silky look and feel.

Platinum is the essence of subtle style; and no precious metal brings out the brilliance of diamonds the way platinum does.

Platinum is an exceptional product of nature, and jewelry made from this glorious metal is equally notable.

Gold!

Put forth thy hand,
reach at the glorious gold.
William Shakespeare,
Henry VI, Part 2

Glorious Gold

Gold is the world’s most popular metal...and for good reason!

Gold has been with us for eons and its amazing properties make it one of the most unique and special natural creations on Earth.

Gold, often described as the “supreme raw material” is the only precious metal that combines irresistible beauty, remarkable workability, indestructibility, and rarity. Gold is so special that it has long been a symbol for all things good, including describing someone as having a “Heart of Gold,” saying something is “Good as Gold,” and, perhaps most memorably, choosing to live by the “The Golden Rule.”

Gold was the very first Christmas gift (along with frankincense and myrrh, of course), and gold was fashioned into gem-encrusted jewelry and priceless objets d'art by the ancient Egyptians. This precious metal also added glistening brilliance to the religious symbols of the Incas, and the Asante people of Africa's Gold Coast so loved crafting their intricate jewelry, that they would periodically melt down their older gold pieces to create new ones.

The Bible even mentions gold and refers to its value -- both in earthly and spiritual terms. The “talent” referred to in the Bible was actually a gold coin which weighed 8.5 grams. In the Book of Matthew, Jesus tells the parable of the King who forgave a debt of 10,000 talents owed him by one of his servants. At today’s retail prices, 85,000 grams of 14K gold would be worth approximately $2 million!

Amazingly, almost all the gold mined in the last 6,000 years is still in the possession of man. If all of this gold were shaped into a cube, it would measure only 60 feet on each side and would fit neatly beneath the Eiffel Tower. This trillion dollar cube would also fit comfortably on the deck of any modern oil tanker. There is a legend that a tiny part of Cleopatra’s crown is in every single piece of gold jewelry in existence today, and that the piece of jewelry you wear today may also contain gold from an Egyptian tomb or from King Solomon’s temple.

In the last 6,000 years, over 125,000 tons of gold has been mined on Earth and the recovery of this gold falls into two categories: before the California Gold Rush of 1848 and after the California Gold Rush. Estimates are that before 1848, only about 10,000 tons of gold had been mined. Thus, approximately 92% of the world’s gold has been produced in the past approximately 150 years. And in the past decade alone, over 2,000 tons of gold has been used each year to make gold jewelry.

Pure gold is 24 karat and is very soft, only a 2.5 - 3 on the Mohs Scale of hardness. (Pure gold is actually softer than coral, lapis, and opal on the Mohs Scale.) One ounce of pure gold can be stretched into a wire an astonishing five miles long and hammered into a sheet so thin, it would cover an area 100 square feet in size and light would pass through it. The word carat (of which the notation for gold, “karat,” is a variation) comes from the Arabic word qirat, which means bean pod. In Oriental bazaars, a carob seed was a unit of weight measurement.

In addition to its use in jewelry, gold is also used as currency; in medicine (gold shots); in the aerospace industry; in the electronics industry; and in dentistry.

True Colors

Alloys are added to pure gold to make it stronger and easier to work with, and also to change its color. Natural yellow gold can be alloyed to create white gold, pink gold, and green gold:

GOLD COLOR CHART

The alloys added to pure 24K gold

• Yellow Gold: Copper and silver. Yellow gold comprises 85% of the gold sold throughout the world.
• White Gold: Nickel, Zinc, Silver, Platinum, and Palladium. White gold symbolizes friendship and is the most important of the colored golds.
• Pink (Rose) Gold: Copper. Pink gold has become increasingly popular and looks lovely when combined with yellow or green gold.
• Green Gold: Silver, Copper, and Zinc Green gold is being used more and more with pink gold and yellow gold and is an important part of Black Hills Gold’s signature grape leaf design.

A Bunch of Karats

The alloys also reduce the amount of pure gold in the piece, and the following chart explains how different karat golds are created:

GOLD KARAT CHART

• 8K 33.3% 333 This is the minimum karat that can be called “gold” in Mexico.
• 9K 37.5% 375 This is a very popular karat gold in Ireland, and it is also the minimum karat that can be called “gold” in Canada.
• 10K 41.7% 417 This is the minimum karat that can be called “gold” in the United States.
• 12K 50% 500 12 karat was abolished in 1932 when the 14K standard was legalized, although some Black Hills gold is still manufactured in 12K.
• 14K 58.3% 585 14 karat is the most popular karat gold sold in the United States.
• 15K 62.5% 625 15 karat was abolished in 1932 when the 14K standard was legalized.
• 18K 75% 750 18 karat is the most popular karat gold sold in Italy and other European countries.
• 19.2K 80% 800 This is a popular karatage in Portugal.
• 20K 83.3% 833 This is a very high karat gold notable for its bright yellow color.
• 22K 91.6% 916 This is another very high karat gold that is popular in Asia and which is very soft due to its small amount of strengthening alloys.
• 23.76K 99% 990 This is 99% pure gold, and is a popular karatage in Hong King, China, and elsewhere in Asia.
• 24K 100% 1000 This is pure gold, with no alloys added. Jewelry is made using pure 24K gold in Turkey, India, and Asia, but it is very soft, somewhat brassy in color, and more expensive.

Gold is an incredibly popular medium for fashion jewelry and, traditionally, the most favored types of gold jewelry, in order of sales, are neckchains, earrings, charms, chain and bangle bracelets, and fashion rings, including wedding rings. It is believed that the ancient Egyptians (who thought that gold was solidified fire) were one of the first (if not the first) people to use a solid gold band as a wedding ring five thousand years ago, believing the endless circle symbolized the eternity of marriage. Today, more than 19 tons of gold are made into wedding rings each year.

The United States is the world’s largest market for gold jewelry and the variety of fashion styles and themes available boasts something for everyone’s taste!

Chains of gold

Throughout the centuries, the gold chain has been the signature jewelry item and the milestone piece chronicling the passage of cultures and civilizations. Gold neckchains, which were being worn as early as the 7th century BC, are now the most popular way to wear gold, and today, women favor rope, link, box, snake, bead, omega, mesh, stampato, and San Marco chains; while men like rope, link, Figaro, Cuban, and Mariner chains. Symbolically, a gold chain is a symbol of love: by placing a chain around the neck of a loved one, you are symbolically linking that person to you.

That’s Italian!

From couture fashions to fast cars to sleek furniture, the Italian design aesthetic is unrivaled in its ability to intrigue us. And nowhere else is the Italian appreciation of beauty more evident than in their magnificent fine-jewelry designs.
Jennifer Leventhal,
JQ Magazine, April/May 1999

Italy is the world’s indisputable leader in gold jewelry manufacturing, and the majority of QVC’s gold is crafted in Italy.

The Italian jewelry industry is 3,000 years old. In fact, wealthy Italian patrons during the Renaissance encouraged goldsmiths much the way they sponsored artists and sculptors and musicians. Today, Italy uses more than 400 tons of gold a year to make the gorgeous Italian jewelry renowned and beloved around the world. An incredible three-quarters of Italy’s jewelry output is exported to Italian jewelry lovers everywhere. Italian gold is associated with quality and antiquity, in a delicate balance with technology and new, innovative designs.

Today, a wardrobe of gold jewelry includes pins, bracelets, earrings, necklaces, clips, pendants, watches, and rings.

All about Topaz!

•What is topaz?
Topaz is a form of aluminum silicate that occurs in a range of colors and which is considered a semiprecious gemstone. It is moderately priced and readily available in most colors, although the pink variety tends to be somewhat more rare, and thus, more expensive. The yellow variety of topaz, known as citrine, is used as the November birthstone; in recent years, the blue variety of topaz has replaced turquoise as the December birthstone.

•Where is topaz found?
Topaz is found in the United States, Brazil, Sri Lanka, Myanmar, the former USSR, Australia, Pakistan, Mexico, Japan, and Africa. Much of the finest quality topaz comes from Brazil.

•Color
Topaz occurs in many gorgeous shades of yellow, orange, brown, red, pink, blue, green, and also in a colorless state. There are several variations of topaz used for jewelry, including Precious Imperial and yellow/champagne topaz (both in the orange/gold family); Swiss blue topaz (a deep blue); Sky blue topaz (a pale blue that resembles aquamarine); and London blue topaz, a rich, medium shade of blue.

•Shape
Topaz is cut into all the faceted gemstone shapes, including round brilliant, oval-shaped, emerald cut, cushion-shaped, marquise-shaped, pear-shaped, and trillion. Because of its structure, topaz is rarely cut into cabochons.

•Durability
On the Mohs Scale, topaz is a high 8, which makes it a durable stone for normal wear. However, topaz can easily be chipped or cracked if struck against a hard surface. Topaz does not take well to extreme heat (it can fracture or break) and some of the paler-colored stones can fade if subjected to high temperatures.

•Quality
As with other moderately-priced, semiprecious stones, topaz is usually graded by the intensity of its color first, since it is possible to buy clean, brilliant stones for affordable prices. Thus, a desirable topaz (whether of the gold or blue family) should be bright, well-made (attractively proportioned), and not show any chips or cracks. Also, you should not be able to see any inclusions (black spots, feathers, bubbles) with the naked eye in the larger stones.

•Legend and lore
Topaz is reputed to protect its wearers from harm, bless them with pleasant dreams, and assure a peaceful passing from one life to the next. Topaz is also rumored to improve vision, improve leadership abilities, improve a wearer’s relationship with animals, help its wearers make the right decisions, allow wearers to make full use of all their talents, and encourage honesty and integrity.

•Care
All topaz can be soaked in any good commercial jewelry cleaner, or a mild detergent and ammonia solution. (Do not boil.) Rinse the piece well in hot (but not scalding) water and dry thoroughly. Do not dry your topaz with a heater or blow dryer as this can fade the colors or cause fracturing if the stone is subjected to temperature extremes.

All about Ruby!

•What is ruby?
Ruby is the red variety of gem-quality corundum. (The mineral corundum occurs in a wide range of colors, but all corundum that is not the color red is called sapphire. See the chapter on sapphire in this volume.) Ruby has long been prized as the “king of gems” and the “gem of gems” and it is one of the three natural gemstones that comprise the previously described trinity of precious stones, the other two being emerald and sapphire. (Diamond is, of course, in a category all its own!) Ruby is beautiful, extremely hard, and is one of the gemstones most well-suited for use in jewelry. Ruby is the July birthstone and is the commemorative gemstone for the 40th wedding anniversary.

•Where is ruby found?
Rubies are found in Myanmar (the finest specimens), Sri Lanka, Thailand (brownish red stones), Afghanistan, India, Kampuchea, Pakistan, Vietnam, Norway, Kenya, Tanzania; and North Carolina in the United States.

•Color
Ruby occurs in shades of red, including bright red, purplish red, brownish red and pinkish red. Usually the stones with the deeper and more consistent color throughout are considered the most attractive and are the most valuable.

•Shape
Ruby is extremely suitable for cutting into all the faceted gemstone shapes: round brilliant, oval, pear, marquise, emerald, heart, square, trillion, and fantasy. Ruby is also cut into cabochons, and some translucent forms of ruby exhibit a six-line star effect in the middle (from the presence of internal rutile inclusions) when cut as a cabochon. These gorgeous, intriguing stones are known as star rubies.

•Durability
Ruby is an exceptionally durable stone. It can stand up to polishing, boiling, ultrasonic cleaning, a jeweler’s torch, steaming, and many other treatments. It is a 9 on the Mohs Scale, meaning that only diamond is harder. Thus, rubies can be worn with confidence and can stand up to daily wear in rings, pendants, earrings, and other uses. That said, though, please always remember that any gemstone -- including ultrahard diamonds -- can chip, crack, or even fracture if struck just right. Thus, you should not wear any of your gemstone jewelry when doing anything during which you might accidentally bang the stone against a hard surface.

•Quality
The quality of ruby is determined much the way we evaluate the quality of a diamond: by its color and internal inclusions. The highest quality rubies are a deep red color and “eye clean”; i. e., there are no inclusions (flaws) visible to the naked eye. Color evaluation then scales down to fine color, good color, fair color, etc. Clarity (also sometimes referred to as quality) evaluation likewise scales down to minor inclusions, but still almost eye clean; to visible inclusions; and, ultimately, to heavily included. The large, top red, internally flawless rubies are the scarcest, the rarest, and therefore, the most valuable.

•Legend and lore
Rubies have long been thought to bring health, financial success, wisdom, and success in love to its wearers. Ruby has also been associated with passion (probably because of its fire-red color?), and some of the ancients attributed magical powers to rubies, believing that the gemstone’s red color would fade if its wearer was in danger or ill health. Ruby can also reputedly enhance the natural beauty of its wearer; and ruby can also bring a sense of joy to the wearer about being of service to others.

•Care
Ruby jewelry can be cleaned in standard jewelry cleaner, at close to boiling temperatures, and is quite resistant to scratches. Soak it in the jewelry cleaner and then rinse the jewelry well under hot water. As with most other natural gemstones, avoid extreme and drastic temperature changes; for instance, do not boil ruby or expose it to extreme heat (such as that of a blow dryer) and then run it under cold water. Other than that caution, though, ruby can be safely cleaned in cleaning solutions that night harm softer stones. (Note: As previously indicated, ruby is hard. This means that if a ruby is rubbed or scraped against a softer stone, it could actually scratch the stone. Store your ruby jewelry away from your other jewelry so the pieces do not touch each other.)