The Fourth "C": CARAT

What Diamond “Carat Weight” Means and How Diamonds Are Sold By Their Weight

Diamonds are identified and sold by their carat weight, which is not the same as karat, which refers to the purity of gold, as in 14 karat, 18 karat, etc. When talking about diamonds, 1 carat equals 100 points. (Helpful Tip: To clarify the concept of 100 points equaling 1 carat, think of 100 pennies equaling 1 dollar.)

Many people, including jewelers, refer to diamonds as a percentage of their overall carat weight, as in a “quarter carat,” a “half carat,” or “a three-quarter carat” stone. This is a handy shorthand for describing the general range of a diamond’s size, but you should know that a “quarter carat” diamond does not always refer to a diamond that weighs precisely 25 points.

This chart will illustrate the range of diamond weights used in the jewelry industry. Be aware, however, that no matter how a ring or a diamond is described (“this wedding band has a third of a carat total weight of diamonds”) you should always be told the precise weight -- in points -- of the diamond or diamonds you are purchasing.


DIAMOND CARAT WEIGHT = DIAMOND WEIGHT RANGE

Melees 0.001 - 0.04 Ct.
1/20 Carat 0.05 - 0.09 Ct.
1/10 Carat 0.10 - 0.16 Ct.
1/6 Carat 0.17 - 0.19 Ct.
1/5 Carat 0.20 - 0.24 Ct.
1/4 Carat 0.25 - 0.32 Ct.
1/3 Carat 0.33 - 0.37 Ct.
3/8 Carat 0.38 - 0.49 Ct.
1/2 Carat 0.50 - 0.74 Ct.
3/4 Carat 0.75 - 0.87 Ct.
7/8 Carat 0.88 - 0.99 Ct.
Full Carat 1 Carat (100 points)

The Third "C": CUT

7 Classic Shapes

Cut is the most important of diamond’s four Cs. A well-cut stone of any shape will increase the amount of light that passes through the stone and maximize its brilliance and beauty.

There are seven classic diamond shapes:

1. Round Brilliant: The most popular style for cutting diamonds and colored stones. A round brilliant cut consists of 58 facets and was developed to allow maximum brilliancy and fire of each diamond. “Ideal cut” brilliant diamonds are cut to specific table, crown, and pavilion proportions for maximum brilliancy. Not all diamonds are suitable for cutting to ideal proportions. “Old Mine” diamonds are an early form of brilliant cut distinguished by their cushion-shaped, almost square girdle.
2. Marquise: A style of diamond cutting which uses the facet shape and placement of brilliant stones but which results in a boat-shaped diamond that is pointed on each end. Also known as navette cut.
3. Pear: A variation of the 58-facet brilliant cut which results in a pear-shaped stone with a rounded back and a pointed front. Sometimes the front and rear facets are eliminated and the stone will then only have 56 facets.
4. Oval: A variation of the 58-facet brilliant cut which results in a rounded oblong stone.
5. Heart: A variation of the 58-facet brilliant cut which results in a heart-shaped stone in which the girdle diameter across the shoulders is roughly equivalent to the stone’s length. The heart-shaped diamond is the most unashamedly romantic of all the diamond shapes.
6. Emerald: A form of step cutting resulting in a rectangular-shaped stone (although sometimes they are also cut in square shapes) in which the facets both above and below the girdle are all rectangular, four-sided, and parallel to the girdle. A baguette is a small, rectangular diamond available in both tapered and straight shapes, and which sometimes uses fewer facets. Baguettes are most commonly used as side accent stones in both diamond and colored stone jewelry.
7. Trillion: A variation of the 58-facet brilliant cut which results in a triangular-shaped stone with three equal sides.

The Second "C": COLOR

What Diamond “Color” Means And Why There’s A Difference Between a Yellow “Colorless” Diamond & a Natural “Yellow” Diamond

Diamonds occur naturally in an enormous range of colors, including blue, red, green, yellow, lavender, pink, brown, and black. These stones are called “fancy” colored diamonds and should not be confused with the most common and most popular colorless diamond.

Colorless diamonds are in the “white” family of diamonds and the most sought after (and most expensive) are the stones that show no hint of body color at all. These diamonds are graded D, E, or F on the GIA color scale and are considered the most beautiful stones. These fine white diamonds, if also of a very high Clarity (VS or better) boast a brilliance (often referred to as “fire”) that, ironically, sparkles with all the colors of the rainbow!

Colorless diamonds are the diamonds used for engagement rings, in wedding rings, in diamond earring and pendants, and as accent stones in gemstone jewelry. The following chart explains the color differences within the white category, and should be helpful when evaluating the differences between several diamonds.

Bear in mind that compromises must often be made when purchasing a diamond and in many cases, a consumer will opt for a lower color in order to be able to purchase a larger stone at a desired price.

The First "C": CLARITY

What Diamond “Clarity” Means and How Diamonds Are Graded

Diamonds are graded by their clarity, a term used to describe the level of purity of a diamond.

Many consumers become quite confused when the terms used for evaluating a diamond’s clarity are bandied about by those who are more knowledgeable about diamond grading practices.

What do all those “V”s and “S”s mean anyway? Is a VVS better than a VS? And why do some diamonds also have numbers in their grades? What’s the difference between an SI-2 and an SI-1?

As with any field requiring training and expertise, the jargon used in the diamond business can be daunting ... yet it need not be, and the following chart should make it fairly simple to understand what all those letters and numbers mean. This information will put the range of diamond qualities in a context that you can use when making a purchase of diamond jewelry.

A Few Terms You Should Know Before You Get Started

• Blemish: An external imperfection on a diamond.
• Cleavage: The natural tendency of a crystal to break along a certain plane. Diamonds have perfect cleavage, making them excellent stones for fashioning into many shapes ... but they are so hard that once the earliest cleaving is completed, they can then only be cut and shaped by other diamonds. (Low-grade “industrial” diamonds are used to make the grinding tools necessary to cut diamonds.)
• Flaw: An internal or external blemish, fissure, carbon spot, or knot present on a diamond.
• GIA: The Gemological Institute of America, a nonprofit, educational organization whose grading systems are used as the standard throughout the jewelry industry.
• Imperfection: The same thing as a flaw; the terms are often used interchangeably.
• Inclusion: Any visible, internal flaw in a diamond.
• Loupe: A small, 10X magnifier that fits in the eye.
• Round brilliant: The most common cut of diamonds, as well as the most popular. It has 58 facets, and the “Ideal Cut” is the industry standard for the perfect Round Brilliant cut.
• 10X: Ten power magnification, the most commonly used magnification by jewelers for examining diamonds, gemstones and other jewelry.

THE GIA GRADES: How diamonds are evaluated

• F Flawless Completely free from all internal and external inclusions, blemishes, flaws, or other imperfections.
• IF Internally Flawless No internal inclusions of any kind visible to a trained eye at 10 power (10X) magnification.
• VVS-1 Very, Very Slight Inclusions #1 One or more very minor inclusions that are extremely difficult to locate by a trained eye at 10X magnification.
• VVS-2 Very, Very Slight Inclusions #2 One or more very minor inclusions that are very difficult to locate by a trained eye at 10X magnification.
• VS-1 Very Slight Inclusions #1 Minor inclusions that are difficult to locate by a trained eye at 10X magnification.
• VS-2 Very Slight Inclusions #2 Minor inclusions that are somewhat difficult to locate by a trained eye at 10X magnification.
• SI-1 Slight Inclusions #1 Noticeable inclusions that are easy to locate by a trained eye at 10X magnification.
• SI-2 Slight Inclusions #2 Noticeable inclusions that are very easy to locate by a trained eye at 10X magnification, and possibly by an untrained eye. Some inclusions may also be visible without magnification.
• I-1 Included #1 Obvious inclusions, flaws, carbon spots, and/or blemishes that are somewhat easy to locate by a trained or untrained eye without magnification.
• I-2 Included #2 Obvious inclusions, flaws, carbon spots, and/or blemishes that are easy to locate by a trained or untrained eye without magnification.
• I-3 Included #3 Obvious inclusions, flaws, carbon spots, and/or blemishes that are very easy to locate by a trained or untrained eye without magnification.

Diamond

This is that happy morn,
That day, long-wished day ...
Which, purely white, deserves
An everlasting diamond should it mark.

William Drummond
“Summons to Love"

Revealed Glories
Diamond is the hardest mineral on Earth. On the Mohs Scale of gemstone hardness, diamond is the “gold standard” (so to speak): Diamond is a 10; all the other natural gemstones are ranked lower.

Diamond is made of simple carbon and it takes 250 tons of ore to produce a single 1-carat polished diamond. Only 1 in 1,000 diamonds is over a carat in weight.

Diamonds are evaluated by what has come to be known as the “Four Cs”:

• Clarity
• Color
• Cut
• Carat Weight

Mined diamonds in the rough barely hint at the revealed glories hidden in the dull white stone that has been and continues to be so valued. But the perfect crystalline structure of a diamond lends itself magnificently to being cut and polished, and when a diamond is finished in this manner by a master diamond cutter, the results can range from an internally flawless 2-carat round brilliant, to a flawed quarter-carat marquise.

Regardless of the quality of the finished stone, though, there is no denying that a polished diamond is one of the most beautiful natural objects on Earth.

Diamonds were first mined in India over 4,000 years ago. Early attempts at cutting and polishing diamonds resulted in “blocky” stones (table cuts, Rose cuts, Old Mine cuts, Old European cuts) that did not have the visual appeal of the modern cut stones of today. Technology has allowed diamond cutters to perfect the cutting and polishing process. Now it is possible to produce the best possible polished stone from an uncut diamond.

Diamonds have long been treasured as symbols of eternal love and the diamond engagement ring is a beloved part of the courting, engagement, and marriage ritual.

One diamond producer uses as their slogan “A diamond is forever,” emphasizing that diamonds were formed over 100 million years ago and thus, they are the perfect way to say “I will always love you.”

Diamonds are used for much more than engagement rings, though, and diamond earrings and diamond pendants are perenially popular and important parts of every woman’s jewelry wardrobe. Diamonds are also used as accent stones in colored stone rings, pendants, and earrings, and the diamond wedding band is also a very popular way to wear diamonds.

Throughout history, diamonds have been cherished ... and not only for their beauty.

The myths, legends, and lore surrounding diamonds could fill volumes, although it is really not all that surprising that such an incredible natural creation as diamond should be revered enough to have mystical and magical qualities atributed to it.

According to legend, wearing a diamond endows the wearer with unparalleled strength, bravery, and courage. Diamonds are also reputed to possess spiritual qualities that can repel demons and evil spirits. Diamonds can supposedly attract friends, guarantee success, imbue the wearer with a aura of authority and power, and assure good fortune. Diamonds are rumored to slow down the aging process and also make the wearer wealthy. They can assure invincibility, enhance spirituality, and, perhaps most intriguing considering diamond’s traditional use as a symbol of betrothal and eternal love, enhance sexual prowess in both the giver and the recipient.

Today, the top seven diamond producing countries are

• Botswana
• Russia
• South Africa
• Angola
• Namibia
• Australia
• Zaire

Diamond is perhaps the most important natural gemstone used in jewelry and this chapter will help clear up some of the confusion about the many sizes, shapes, qualities, and colors of diamonds.

All about Opal!

•What is opal?
Opal is a translucent form of silica that boasts an iridescent play of colors and which occurs in a wide rainbow of colors, including white and black. The deeply colored stones with an intense “fire” of many colors are the rarest and most valuable opals. Varieties of opal include milk; fire; black; Brazilian; yellow; and red; as well as opal triplet; opal doublet; and opal mosaic. Opal is the October birthstone and is the commemorative gemstone for the 14th wedding anniversary.

•Where is opal found?
The main sources for gem quality opal today are Australia and Mexico; and Oregon and Nevada (and elsewhere) in the United States. Opals are also mined in Czechoslovakia, South Africa, and Brazil (Brazilian opal).

•Color
Opals occur in a wide range of qualities and colors. Here is an overview of the different types of natural opals:

• Milk: Also known as “light opal”; “milk” opal refers to a group of opals with a white background and a play of colors ranging from almost none, to a brilliant play of colors. Included in this category are white opals, grey opals, crystal opals, and jelly opals.
• Fire: Fire opals occur with red, orange, or yellow body colors and can exhibit little or no play of colors, to very intense and lively plays of color. Mexico is the main source for fire opals. Fire opals are often labeled by the predominance of their body color, i. e., red opal, yellow opal, etc.
• Black: Also known as “dark opal”; “black” opal refers to a group of opals with a stunning and distinct play of color against a dark, or black background. Black opal (discovered in Australia in 1903) is considered one of the better grades of opal and can command high per-carat prices.
• Opal doublet: An opal doublet is a thin layer of opal cemented to a flat, often black stone such as onyx. The resulting “doublet” mimics the more expensive black opal and can be quite beautiful.
• Opal triplet: An opal triplet is an opal doublet to which a protective top layer of colorless quartz (or even glass) has been added to enhance the colors of the main opal slice.
• Opal Mosaic: An arrangement of many small, irregularly shaped pieces of multi-colored opals cemented into a pleasing pattern and set in rings and pendants.

•Shape
Opals are most often cut into round, marquise, pear, oval, or heart-shaped cabochons, or into shapes with a flat top. Opals that are all one color are sometimes faceted. In many instances, in order to preserve an individual opal’s unique play of colors, a pendant, brooch, earring, or ring mounting will be designed to accommodate the natural shape of the stone rather than cut it to fit a standard shape mounting.

•Durability
Opal is not a very durable stone. It is only a 6 on the Mohs Scale and should be treated with care. It is considered one of the “softest” of gemstones and should be handled, cleaned, and stored accordingly.

•Quality
The quality of an opal is determined by the intensity of its “fire”; i. e., the beauty and uniqueness of its play of colors. In general, pale, single color opals (also known as potch opals or white opals) are considered lower quality than the vividly colored stones. In the jewelry industry, many dealers grade opals by using these five categories:

• AAA grade: These are the scarcest stones and they have deep, very intense iridescence and fire, and boast many gorgeous colors. AAA opals are strikingly beautiful.
• AA grade: These stones have strong fire and often show several colors; they usually have a white or a clear background.
• A grade: These stones have medium fire and a few distinct colors; they also usually have a white or clear background.
• B grade: These stones have a light play of colors and may have one or two colors; their background is often very white.
• C grade: These stones have almost no play of color and are usually whitish; these opals are often used in budget-priced jewelry.

•Legend and lore
Opals are a symbol of hope, fidelity, and purity. Opals are also reputed to heal diseases of the eye; while black opals are believed to be lucky and to make the wearer attractive to other people. For centuries, opals have also been associated with spirituality and prayer.

•Care
To clean your opal jewelry, swish the pieces in a mild soap solution and rinse them under warm water. Do not soak opals in anything, especially ammonia-based jewelry cleaner. If mistreated, opals can dry out, become brittle, and break; and their colors can fade. Avoid anything that can dry out your opals, such as direct sunlight or excessive heat.

All about Garnet!

•What is garnet?
The word “garnet” comes from the Latin word granatum which means “seedlike.” Why? Because when garnet was first discovered, garnet crystals reminded many of pomegranate seeds. (The Old French word grenat, which means “pomegranate-colored” is also considered a source word.) Garnet is the umbrella term used to describe a number of different color, transparent gemstones made of silicate material and occuring in all colors except blue. The red varieties of garnet are most commonly used as the January birthstone (although any form of garnet can be worn as the birthstone); rhodolite garnet is used as the commemorative gemstone for the 2nd wedding anniversary; tsavorite garnet (green) is often used for the 12th wedding anniversary.

•Where is garnet found?
Garnet occurs in many places on earth (rumor has it Noah used it on the ark to block bright light!), although some areas are more abundant in certain types and colors of the gemstone than others. Here is where several of the more popular varieties of garnet are mined:

• African: Several regions in Africa.
• Almandine/Almandite: This variety is found in metamorphic rocks all over the world, on all the continents.
• Brazilian Plum: Brazil; several other regions in South America.
• Hessonite: Sri Lanka, Madagascar, Brazil, Canada, Siberia; also in Maine, California, and New Hampshire in the United States.
• Mandarin (spessartite): Namibia, Sri Lanka, Kenya, Brazil, Afghanistan, Myanmar, Sweden, Australia, Madagascar; also, a bountiful source for superb Mandarin garnet is the Little Three Mine in California in the United States.
• • Rhodolite (pyrope): Rhodolite is found all over the world. Some bountiful sources include Arizona in the United States, South Africa (found, interestingly, in South Africa’s magnificent diamond mines) Argentina, Australia, Brazil, Myanmar, Scotland, Switzerland, and Tanzania.
• Tsavorite (grossular): Kenya (the stone is named after Kenya’s Tsavo National Park), Tanzania, Canada, Sri Lanka, Russia, Hungary, Italy, the United States.

•Color
The most favored varieties of garnet include:

• African: red.
• Almandine (also referred to as Almandite): red; brownish-red; orange, purple.
• Brazilian Plum: reddish-purple.
• Hessonite: orange; yellow; red; colorless.
• Mandarin: Fiery red-orange; yellowish-orange; reddish-purple; purple; pink.
• Rhodolite: Purplish-red.
• Tsavorite: All the shades of green; yellowish-green.

•Shape
Garnet is cut into all the faceted gemstone shapes: round brilliant, oval, pear, marquise, emerald, heart, square, trillon, and fantasy. Garnet is also cut into rose cuts, cabochons, carved into cameos and figurines, and fashioned into beads of varying shapes.

•Durability
Garnet ranges in hardness on the Mohs Scale from a 6 1/2 to a 7 1/2 and is considered a moderately durable, but slightly brittle stone. It sets well but jewelers always exercise care when using a torch in close proximity to garnet (as in prong repairs, when the prong is on the garnet and needs to be soldered). Garnet does not handle boiling well, but can be steamed and soaked in an ultrasonic cleaner with little risk. Garnet can, however, chip or fracture if struck hard enough.

•Quality
Garnet is a plentiful, affordable gemstone and, thus, seriously flawed stones are rarely used in most jewelry. “Clean” stones are readily available, so most “quality” concerns regarding garnet focus on the depth, intensity, and uniformity of each stone’s body color. The deeper reds, oranges, greens, etc. are considered higher quality stones, and are unquestionably more appealing to the eye. The inclusions in Mandarin garnet, when they occur, are thin lines or feathers; inclusions in tsavorite are usually black specks.

•Legend and lore
Garnet is said to lighten sadness of the heart and encourage loyalty and devotion in the wearer. Garnet also has reputed medicinal properties, including the alleged ability to stop hemorrhaging and cure inflammatory diseases like arthritis. Garnet is, in general, a stone that can cure the wearer of his or her ills, both emotional and physical. Garnet can also stimulate productivity and the almandine variety of garnet can “cure” laziness and encourage purposeful focus in the wearer. Rhodolite garnets have the same “encouraging productivity” effects, but more for one’s career than their private life.

•Care
Garnet can be soaked in ammonia-based jewelry cleaner but should not be boiled. Rinse the piece well under warm to hot water and dry with a soft cloth. Store garnet away from direct sunlight and avoid wearing garnet rings when doing things like sports or gardening. Also, avoid drastic temperature changes for your garnet jewelry.

All about Emerald!

•What is emerald?
Emerald is a green, transparent form of the mineral beryl. Emerald is one of the beloved members of the “trinity” of precious gemstones (as opposed to semiprecious, i.e. amethyst, garnet, etc.,); the other two being ruby and sapphire. Emerald is the May birthstone and is used as the commemorative gemstone for the 20th and 35th wedding anniversaries.

•Where is emerald found?
The finest emeralds are mined in Colombia. Other important sources for gem grade emerald are Brazil (Brazilian emerald), Egypt (where there is evidence that emeralds were first mined in 3500 BC), South Africa, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Pakistan, Afghanistan, Russia, Norway, Australia, and North Carolina in the United States.

•Color
Emeralds occur in all the shades of the color green, from a pale translucent green, to deep, vivid shades of “grass” green. Emeralds are so valuable that they are routinely oiled with cedarwood oil or palm oil to enhance their color, and sometimes epoxy filler is used to stabilize dangerous cracks or cleavage lines. This is common practice in the industry and it assures the consumer that the emerald he or she ultimately acquires will be as strong and durable as is possible with today’s modern gemological practices.

•Shape
Emerald is cut into all the faceted gemstone shapes: round brilliant, oval, pear, marquise, emerald, heart, square, trillion, and fantasy. Emerald is also cut into cabochons, carved into cameos, intaglios, and figurines, and fashioned into beads of varying shapes.

•Durability
Emerald is a very delicate stone. It has a hardness of 7 1/2 on the Mohs Scale, but is easily cracked, chipped, or even shattered. It must be set carefully and cannot withstand the heat of the jeweler’s torch. Emerald should also not be boiled or steamed. Excessive heat can cause an emerald to fade and in some cases, extreme temperature changes (hot water to a cold rinse) can cause the stone to shatter. I have personally examined emeralds that have broken due to this kind of treatment. One of my customers lay in the hot sun for hours while wearing a large emerald pendant and then jumped in the cold ocean. The stone cracked (it was irreparable) and my customer was heartbroken. (Also, it is unlikely that your homeowner’s or renter’s insurance would cover this kind of damage, so be careful with your emeralds.)

•Quality
The highest quality emeralds are an intense green color and have few or no internal inclusions (flaws). Larger emeralds of this quality are the rarest and, therefore, the most expensive. The quality of emeralds diminishes as the color becomes lighter and less brilliant, and the number of internal blemishes, feathers, black spots, and white spots become more numerous. Because of emerald’s rarity and exceptional appeal, some inclusions are acceptable in emerald stones. Some emeralds exist that are so large, so deeply green, and so internally clean that they are rarely if ever set into jewelry and worn. Stones of this caliber are essentially investments, not jewelry. The majority of jewelry grade emeralds, though, are pleasing to the eye, affordable, and a pleasure to wear.

•Legend and lore
Emerald has long been believed to bestow on its wearers fidelity and eternal love. Emerald is also reputed to endow the wearer with the psychic ability to foretell the future. Emeralds can also diminish arrogance in the wearer and some believe that wearing an emerald can make you more communicative and also bless you with the guidance needed to make important decisions about your life. The wearing of green can also instill hope when worn by men, and inspire personal change and unbounded ambition when worn by women.

•Care
Emeralds can be soaked in ammonia-based jewelry cleaner, but only briefly. In the trade, we will very often vigorously swish an emerald piece in the ultrasonic jewelry cleaning machine -- without turning it on -- and then gently scrub the piece with a soft toothbrush and plain soap and water or dishwashing detergent. At home you can do the same, or you can soak it in a warm soapy solution for several minutes. Always rinse the stone thoroughly under warm -- not hot, not cold -- water and dry thoroughly. Also, store your emerald jewelry away from the heat of direct sunlight.

All about Aquamarine!

•What is aquamarine?
Aquamarine is a beautiful, transparent blue-green form of the mineral beryl. It is the March birthstone and is also used as the commemorative gemstone for the 19th wedding anniversary.

•Where is aquamarine found?
A great deal of the world’s finest aquamarine is found in Brazil. Aquamarine is also mined in Africa, Madagascar, the Urals in Russia, India, the Ukraine, Zambia, Pakistan, Afghanistan, and Nigeria. The aquamarine mined in Madagascar is dark blue. Lately, a very pretty aquamarine minded in China has become available to the world market and is being set in the complete range of jewelry styles.

•Color
The word aquamarine is derived from the Latin words aqua marina, which mean “sea water.” Aquamarine is available in a lovely range of blue, from a blue so pale as to sometimes appear almost colorless, to a deeper sky blue. In its natural state, aquamarine has a greenish tint that vanishes when the stones are routinely heated for color enhancement.

•Shape
Aquamarine can be cut into all the faceted gemstone shapes: round brilliant, oval, pear, marquise, heart, cushion, square, trillion, fantasy, and emerald. It is also cut into cabochons. You will rarely, if ever, find aquamarine shaped into beads.

•Durability
Aquamarine is a 7 1/2 on the Moh’s Scale and is considered to be a fairly durable stone. It holds up well to setting and polishing, but not to boiling or being exposed to the heat of the jeweler’s torch. (Excessive heating of aquamarine can lighten its color.)

•Quality
The deeper colored aquamarines, with few if any flaws, are considered the highest quality and are also the most visually appealing. Because of its transparent nature, flaws will detract from the beauty of an aquamarine and thus, internally “clean” stones should be chosen. The good news, though, is that high clarity (and, thus, high quality) aquamarines are readily available, although the very large, high quality stones are becoming somewhat scarcer in the past few years.

•Legend and lore
According to legend, aquamarine is a “power” stone: wearing it can make you more confident and sure of yourself and your decisions. It also reportedly surrounds the wearer with an aura that others subconsciously read as an air of authority. Also, because of its intrinsic connection with the sea, some believe that wearing aquamarine can exert a calming effect, similar to the calm one feels when being around bodies of water (which is, I guess, one of the reasons why shoreline property is so expensive!). Also, if you dream of aquamarine, it means you are about to make new friends, and aquamarine earrings are supposed to bring love to the wearer.

•Care
Aquamarine can be cleaned with standard jewelry cleaner, even in an ultrasonic cleaner, as long as the solution is not allowed to get too hot. At home, you can soak your aquamarine jewelry in jewelry cleaner, rinse it under warm to hot water, and dry with a soft cloth. Do not expose aquamarine to excessive heat or sunlight (don’t wear it to the beach, in other words) and never boil it. And as with other faceted stones, be careful not to hit aquamarine against hard surfaces, as it may chip, crack, or even shatter if struck hard enough.

All About Amethyst!

•What is amethyst?
Amethyst is a purple form of transparent quartz that is one of the world’s most popular gemstones. It is used as the February birthstone and also as the commemorative gemstone for the 6th wedding anniversary.

•Where is amethyst found?
Much of the world’s amethyst is mined in Brazil, Uruguay, Bolivia, and Zambia. Brazilian amethyst is notable for its rich color and consistent clarity. Amethyst is also mined in the Ural Mountains of Russia (this amethyst has a red tint); the United States; India; Germany; Madagscar; Australia; and Canada (Canadian amethyst has blue undertones).

•Color
Amethyst occurs in the complete range of the color purple, from pale lavender and lilac to a deep purple, sometimes containing undertones of red. Some of the violet varieties of amethyst have a bluish tinge.

•Shape
Amethyst is cut into all the faceted gemstone shapes: round brilliant, oval, pear, marquise, emerald, heart, square, trillion, and fantasy. Amethyst is also cut into cabochons, carved into cameos and figurines, and fashioned into beads of varying shapes.

•Durability
Amethyst is a relatively durable stone and can be cut, polished, set, and cleaned with relative safety. It has a hardness of 7 on the Mohs Scale. Very strong heat, however, can actually lighten the color of amethyst and, as with other stones with natural cleavage lines, sudden temperature changes can cause fracturing, cracking, or even shattering. Excessive exposure to sunlight can also cause amethyst to fade.

•Quality
As with many other semiprecious gemstones, the quality of an individual amethyst stone is determined by both the intensity of its color and the number and size of its inclusions. The highest quality amethysts are deeply and evenly colored, with few or no internal inclusions (flaws). The lowest grade amethysts are pale lavender in color and filled with inclusions, some of which may easily be seen with the unaided eye. Lower grade amethyst is often cut and polished into beads for stringing since high grade, more expensive stones are not really necessary for a strand consisting of dozens of individual beads.

•Legend and lore
Legend has it that amethyst was created by Bacchus, the god of wine. One day Bacchus got so fed up with mortals that he swore that he would feed to the tigers the next human to cross his path. This unfortunate mortal happened to be a maiden named Amethyst, who would unwittingly cross Bacchus’ path on her way to worship the goddess Diana. Diana outsmarted Bacchus, however, and changed Amethyst into a pillar of colorless quartz to protect her. Bacchus was so amazed by Diana’s miracle that he poured his wine over Amethyst, changing her color to purple, and thus, the gemstone amethyst was created. This legend gave rise to the belief that wearing amethyst would protect a person from drunkenness, from dying by poisoning, and also assure sober judgement. In addition, amethyst worn by a person born under the astrological sign of Pisces is supposed to protect the wearer from making ill-advised decisions based on emotion instead of logic.

•Care
Amethyst can safely be cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaning machine with standard ammonia-based jewelry cleaner. For home cleaning, soak the piece in jewelry cleaner, rinse under hot (not scalding) water, and dry with a soft cloth. Dishwashing detergent mixed with hot water and a splash of ammonia will do in a pinch if you don’t have any jewelry cleaner.

15 Fascinating Facts About Diamonds

1. Every diamond is at least 990 million years old. Many diamonds are 3.2 billion years old.
2. Diamonds were first discovered in India about 2,800 years ago.
3. It is estimated that a total of only 200 tons of diamonds have been mined since they were first discovered.
4. Diamonds are formed between 62 and 124 miles beneath the surface of the Earth.
5. The word diamond comes from the Greek word adamas, which means invincible.
6. Ancient Greeks believed that diamonds were the tears of the Gods.
7. There is a legend that diamonds will keep away ghosts and prevent nightmares.
8. The 14th century alchemist Pierre de Boniface claimed that diamonds could make a wearer invisible.
9. Napoleon carried a 140-carat diamond in the hilt of his sword for good luck.
10. Diamonds not only come in colors; they also occur in a black form known as charcoal diamonds or midnight diamonds. Black diamonds are exceptionally rare and one of the most famous is the 67.5 carat cushion-cut Black Orlov, which was named after Count Grigor Orlov, Catherine the Great’s lover.
11. Red diamonds are the rarest of the colored diamonds.
12. The Gemological Institute of America’s 23-letter color grading system (D through X) was created in 1963. They skipped letters A, B, and C so that their system would stand out among the other diamond color grading system.
13. The marquise cut of diamond was named for Louis XV’s mistress the Marquise de Pompadour.
14. The 45.52 carat blue Hope Diamond is the most famous gem in the world. It is the largest blue diamond in existence.
15. In the 9th century, if a man broke off an engagement, his ex-fiancée got to keep the engagement ring. If the woman broke the engagement, she was obligated to return the ring.

Wedding Anniversary Gift List

Ever wonder what to get your beloved for your wedding anniversary?

Well, fear not! Here is a list of the modern and traditional gifts for anniversaries.

1st anniversary

MODERN: Gold jewelry

TRADITIONAL: Paper

2nd anniversary

MODERN: Garnet

TRADITIONAL: Cotton

3rd anniversary

MODERN: Pearl

TRADITIONAL: Leather

4th anniversary

MODERN: Blue topaz

TRADITIONAL: Linen or silk

5th anniversary

MODERN: Sapphire

TRADITIONAL: Wood

6th anniversary

MODERN: Amethyst

TRADITIONAL: Iron

7th anniversary

MODERN: Onyx

TRADITIONAL: Wood or copper

8th anniversary

MODERN: Tourmaline

TRADITIONAL: Bronze

9th anniversary

MODERN: Lapis lazuli

TRADITIONAL: Pottery or china

10th anniversary - this is one of the big ones!

MODERN: Diamond

TRADITIONAL: Tin or aluminum

11th anniversary

MODERN: Turquoise

TRADITIONAL: Steel

12th anniversary

MODERN: Jade

TRADITIONAL: Silk

13th anniversary

MODERN: Citrine

TRADITIONAL: Lace

14th anniversary

MODERN: Opal

TRADITIONAL: Ivory

15th anniversary

MODERN: Ruby

TRADITIONAL: Crystal

16th anniversary

MODERN: Peridot

TRADITIONAL: Giver's choice

17th anniversary

MODERN: Watches

TRADITIONAL: Giver's choice

18th anniversary

MODERN: Cat's eye

TRADITIONAL: Giver's choice

19th anniversary

MODERN: Aquamarine

TRADITIONAL: Giver's choice

20th anniversary

MODERN: Emerald

TRADITIONAL: China

25th anniversary - another big one!

MODERN: Silver

TRADITIONAL: Silver

30th anniversary - and another! :-}

MODERN: Pearl

TRADITIONAL: Pearl

35th anniversary - wow!

MODERN: Emerald

TRADITIONAL: Coral or jade

40th anniversary - amazing!

MODERN: Ruby

TRADITIONAL: Ruby

45th anniversary - still going strong!

MODERN: Sapphire

TRADITIONAL: Sapphire

50th anniversary - The Big One!

MODERN: Gold

TRADITIONAL: Gold

55th anniversary - a match obviously made in heaven!

MODERN: Alexandrite

TRADITIONAL: Emerald

60th anniversary - we're speechless!

MODERN: Diamond

TRADITIONAL: Diamond

75th anniversary - there are no words ...

MODERN: Diamond

TRADITIONAL: Diamond

Sterling silver, white gold, & platinum

Sterling silver, white gold, and platinum are the three metals used for jewelry that are "silver" in color. Since it's misleading to refer to white gold as silver in any way, shape, or form (since there is an actual metal called "silver"), the jewelry industry uses the term "white" for silver-colored metals.

The three white metals are different in all ways. Here's a look at how each is used in jewelry and some info you'll need to know when deciding on what to buy.

STERLING SILVER: Sterling silver is the least expensive of the white metals. It's usually stamped "925," which means 92.5% pure silver, and 7.5% other metals. Sterling is used to make neckchains, earrings, rings, bracelets, charms, and anklets. Precious gemstones like diamonds, rubies, emeralds, etc., are rarely, if ever, set in sterling silver. What are commonly set in sterling are the semiprecious stones like onyx, jade, turquoise, and others.

STERLING SILVER PROS: Sterling is very inexpensive and, thus, it's easy to build up a nice collection of pieces of all kinds.

STERLING SILVER CONS: Sterling is relatively soft, it tarnishes, it requires frequent cleaning, and it doesn't offer, in most cases, formal designs. It's a tad more casual, but, in a sense, more fun, because you can buy something for almost every outfit and occasion. Also, some people cannot wear sterling due to metal allergies, especially in the ears. Gold and platinum are essentially hypoallergenic and almost everyone can wear then with no problem. Sterling does cause some people to break out in a rash. (If that happens, remove the jewelry, wash the area with alcohol, and rub a little over-the-counter hydrocortisone cream on the rash and it should clear right up.)

WHITE GOLD: White gold is the most popular "silver" metal. It's used primarily for rings, although you can also find chains, bracelets, and other pieces of jewelry in white gold if you look hard enough, or special order it. White gold is hard, and precious stones are always available in white gold settings. For example, if you're girlfriend, or you yourself if you're of the female denomination, are dying for a ruby ring set in white gold, the odds are you should be able to find one to your liking.

WHITE GOLD PROS: As I said, white gold is hard, which gives it durability, and it holds a mirror shine for a long time.

WHITE GOLD CONS: White gold is considerably more expensive than sterling silver. A plain silver band (like a wedding band design) could cost $10 in sterling and $200 in white gold. Also, because of its cost, if you're the type that likes to wear only one color jewelry - yellow or white - it requires a commitment, especially when it comes to rings. Many women do not like mixing yellow gold and white gold rings on their hands, although this is not carved in stone these days and some people like to mix and match. This is a style decision each person can make for themselves. If you decide on "white only" jewelry, you may find less of a selection due to the overwhelming popularity of yellow gold.

PLATINUM: This is the top of the line when it comes to white metals, and its cost reflects that elevated status. Platinum is very hard, and is commonly used for diamond rings. It is used for other types of jewelry, but because of the wear and abuse rings get on the hands, platinum is commonly chosen by people who want a great deal of longevity in their rings before needing repairs.

PLATINUM PROS: It's the hardest metal used for jewelry, thus providing strength and durability.

PLATINUM CONS: It's expensive, and it turns dull much more quickly than does white gold. Regarding cost, a $200 white gold wedding band could run from $600 and up in platinum.

As is always the case when buying jewelry, price, functionality, and beauty all need to be factored into your buying decision.

If you can wear sterling with no problem, and like a huge collection of earrings or bracelet, or charms, then go for it. You'll find sterling jewelry in the jewelry departments of just about every department store, as well as at jewelers, and online.

If you like the "silver" color but want something of higher quality than sterling, then white gold is the perfect solution.

If you want incredible longevity and durability, and like owning only the best, then platinum is the way to go.

NOTE: Earrings are now available in stainless steel, which is also silver in color, but the bottom line is that stainless is not a precious metal and is commonly chosen by people suffering from severe metal allergies - even to white gold. You almost certainly will not find stainless steel jewelry in a jewelry store, but probably will find stainless steel earrings in department stores.

Welcome to KNOW WHAT THE JEWELER KNOWS!

My name is Stephen Spignesi and I am now a full-time writer, editor, and publisher.

But I also spent 25 years in a family retail jewelry business. During that time, I advised customers on buying diamonds, colored stones, pearls, watches, gold and silver jewelry, and I also did repairs, appraisals and engraving.

I've launched this site - KNOW WHAT THE JEWELER KNOWS - to provide some of the info I learned over the years to people looking for answers about buying jewelry, finding a jeweler, having their jewelry repaired.

I'll also try to help those of you who might be confused about jewelry appraisals for insurance, having things engraved, etc.

In addition to being part of our family jewelry business, I also wrote a book about jewelry for the QVC TV network called Gems, Jewels, and Treasures, and I also took the diamond course at the Gemological Institute of America.

I'll be adding articles to this site that answer specific questions, including 

• What's the difference between sterling silver, white gold, and platinum? They're all a silver color, right?  Does it matter which one I buy?
  
• What happens when my engagement ring's prongs wear out? Will the stone fall out?  What should I do?
• What's "better," an amethyst or a sapphire? Or a ruby or an emerald?
• People need jewelry appraisals for their homeowner's policy. What's that about? I'll tell you everything you need to know before you bring everything you own to a jeweler for an appraisal.
• Who will change the battery in my watch?
• How much should I pay to have my ring sized?
• How much will it cost me to have my favorite gold chain repaired? And will the repair show?
• What's involved with getting something engraved as a gift and how much will it cost?
• How can I know who to trust when I'm looking for a jeweler?
• What's the story with online jewelry sites that sell diamonds and other jewelry? Should I buy from them or go to a store near me?

So stop on by when you have questions and hopefully there will be an article here that answers your question.

Let me help you KNOW WHAT THE JEWELER KNOWS!

For more info about my books, you can check out www.stephenspignesi.com.

Thanks for visiting!